From The Theory and Practice of Modern Brewing: A Re-written and Much Enlarged Edition of The Art of Brewing, by Frank Faulkner, published by F.W. Lyon, 1888, London, England
p. 31 "…There are, of course, many degrees of value, a great deal depending upon variations in flavour, wide distinctions being apparent in this respect between hops cultivated in the Continental districts and those of home [England] growth. The reason for this variation in value is evident to every brewer, and each has his own special view respecting the subject of flavour, some giving preference to the wild Worcester hops, others to varieties of Farnhams, while many of our porter brewers are fond of the peculiar-flavoured Americans."
This is one of the few instances I've found were historic English brewers actually liked American hops, in some beer styles at least. We know from actual brewing journals they were using quite a bit of them, but most commentaries I've read attribute it to cost-cutting, desperation in times of poor yield in England or Contintental Europe, etc, not an intentional artistic preference as implied here.
p. 34 "…Finally, good hops of any variety should have large cones, strobiles of a pale delicate yellow colour, slightly tinged at extremities, and when opened out the inclosed seeds should be found copiously covered with lupulin; there should be an entire absence of leaf, and the proportion of stem should be small, while this and the minute branches should be carefully examined microscopically for mould. Rubbed down between the hands, they should feel glutinous and oily, while the sample itself should appear tightly compressed. As for flavour, each judge has his own special proclivities, the majority preferring the "Goldings" of middle and East Kent; others the "white bines" from the Farnham district; while another section consider the finer descriptions of Worcester hops preferable for delicate-flavoured beers. The Mid-Kent and Sussex hops are by comparison altogether second rate, and even in the case of the better varieties of hop, their flavour depends very much upon exact character of soil and the skill of the hop farmer…"
That's a great summary of what leading English brewing authorities thought 120+ years ago. I was surprised how much still rings true, but I'd love to hear what you guys think about all that. Do you agree or disagree? Which parts in particular? What has changed? How and why? Which modern English varieties are descended from aforementioned Worcester and Farnham hops?The Manual of Brewing: Scientific and Technical, by Egbert Grant Hooper, published by Sheppard and St. John, 1891, London, England
p.197-198 "Kent, Surrey, Hampshire, and Worcester are counties that in England have longbeen famous for their hops. Kent, however, holds the first position both from quantity grown and the quality of the hops produced; and after Kent hops, those grown in the neighborhood of Farnham, and especially a variety known as "Goldings," are most esteemed, and command the highest price. These hops are valued for combining the two properties which brewers prize, delicacy of flavour and cleansing power; in other words, Kent hops are rich in the essential oil which carries the agreeable flavour, and in tannin, which precipitates the albumin of wort. A variety of hop grown in the neighborhood of Canterbury, and known as the Canterbury Grape, is much esteemed, whilst the Worcestershire hops, though somewhat lacking in strength or cleansing power, are noted for their delicacy of flavour, and are especially valuable, therefore, for use in the cask or vat after the beer is finished. A limited quantity of a strong variety suitable for use in porter brewing, and known as the North Clay Hop, is grown in Nottinghamshire. With regard to foreign hops, we make the following quotation from Dr. Graham's remarks on the subject:
"Amongst French hops, those grown in Alsace are perhaps some of the best. The Belgians are much inferior, especially those grown near Alost, which are rather coarse. The finest hops perhaps in the world are those grown in Bohemia. Perhaps in so saying I may stir up some English prejudices, for we no doubt consider some of our Kent hops as good as any, but you must bear in mind the German brewer does not permit these best hops to come to England, for he is prepared to pay a much higher price than an English brewer, and we shall hereafter see why. Amongst these Bohemian hops, the finest of all, as regards delicacy of flavour, are those grown near Saaz; they are not so valuable for the purpose of cleansing and producing store ales, but they are excessively fine in their delicacy of flavour and aroma, and hence are used after fermentation. As regards Bohemian hops, the well-known hops grown near Spalt stand in the very first order for their value in cleansing and beer-keeping qualities…
To the enumeration of foreign hops may be added those of the United States. American hops were formerly very inferior, and especially coarse in flavour. Cultivation and improvement in the varieties grown have, however, done great things, and some samples from the other side of the Atlantic are, in the present day, everything that could be desired."
Cheers,
Seymour, "a peculiar-flavoured American"