How do you aerate your wort

[PaulStat]

My usual method is drop the cooled wort from the boiler down into the FV from about a 2ft drop. Last time however the run off from the boiler got stuck meaning I had to jug a sieve so the wort wasn't very well aerated.

So I've invested in one of these for such circumstances.

[Scotty]

I inadvertantly aerated a kit brew yesterday by pouring the wort from one FV to the other, and then back. From a 6g sachet of yeast, it has the largest foam head I have seen to date!

I was actually trying to reduce the temperature of the wort to pitch the yeast but that didn't work very well

[EportJake]

Mine goes through my counter flow cooler then drops through a seive into my FV. Never had a problem with a stuck fermentation yet.

[nobby]

I just let it run from one FV to another via a Collinder. Not had any problems yet.

[WishboneBrewery]

Semi-long drop through sieve then after the yeast is pitched I give it a good thrashing with the paddle

[Middo]

All methods listed here work fine - letting the wort drop into the FV from a height should provide enough oxygen for a healthy fermentation. Can't remember where I read it but I recently attached my beer paddle to an electric drill, set the speed to medium(ish), stuck it in the wort and gave it a good blast. If you try this, be sure to move the paddle about as if whisking, rather than just sticking it in the centre; otherwise you'll form a giant whirlpool and could end up with a nice 360 deg splashing of wort around your FV!

[vacant]

If I'm using Nottingham or Windsor I don't bother. Danstar state "It is unnecessary to aerate wort."
http://www.danstaryeast.com/tds/nottingham.pdf

[6470zzy]

If I'm using Nottingham or Windsor I don't bother. Danstar state "It is unnecessary to aerate wort."
http://www.danstaryeast.com/tds/nottingham.pdf

That is true up to a point....if you are brewing a beer up to 5% then you are all set with your dry yeast. If however you want to do a higher alcohol brew then you will benefit from aeration, I use a Stainless Steel 2 micron diffusion stone and an aquarium pump with a sanitary filter in between. I usually let it bubble away for 20 minutes and have good results with the setup.

Cheers

[Whorst]

I use pure oxygen.

[6470zzy]

[quote="Whorst"]I use pure oxygen.


How long do you oxygenate for, 30 seconds or so? I have looked at these and toyed with the thought of getting one, have you noticed a marked difference in your ferments?

Cheers

[GARYSMIFF]

How did I guess that any of the chaps from over the pond who answered this post would have bottles of o2 and SSteel Air stones

What would that cost over here?

I must say, I have looked and have a HEPA filter for an air pump and enquired about a SSteel air stone .

I like to chuck a few Piranha in and a James Bond villain that works quite well.

[6470zzy]

How did I guess that any of the chaps from over the pond who answered this post would have bottles of o2 and SSteel Air stones

What would that cost over here?

I must say, I have looked and have a HEPA filter for an air pump and enquired about a SSteel air stone .

I like to chuck a few Piranha in and a James Bond villain that works quite well.

here is a link for the various prices for the whole kit:

http://www.williamsbrewing.com/WORT_AERATION_C106.cfm

[Scooby]

I have the kit and don't use it any more if you want it

Why use o2 or even aerate at all when it causes oxidation of the wort? Just add a tiny drop of olive oil to your starter, Carapelli works best

[Whorst]

I usually oxygenate between 45-60 seconds. I get fast very fast starts. There are many ways to this, but I prefer pure oxygen.

[CJBrew]

Regarding olive oil:

http://www.fermentarium.com/content/view/254/58/

I thought "like heck am I adding Olive oil to my beer", so looked it up. Interesting, at least... Increased Esters would be good for a lot of ale styles