Sticking Munton's (Woodfordes) Kits - Information and offer

[Waffty]

So could it be the yeast quantity (S04 is 11g, as opposed to 6g) or could it be quality of yeast ?

Many have changed the yeast for Safale04 and still had the same problem.

In which case, it may be an idea to 'collect' batch numbers, manufacturing dates etc as I guess that's the only way we're going to narrow this one down i.e there's too many examples to be a coincidence but not enough to be a material failing.

I'll see if my cans are still around (& haven't made it in the recycle bin) & see what number are on them. I know I have the yeast packet, as I used S04.

Darren.

[StrangeBrew]

Having read as others have on the forum fermentation issues, I was worried my Wherry kit would stick also. Especially when after 4 days my hydro check read 1.020 (started 1.050), but after 10 days it was down to 1.012, giving an ABV of 5%ish - actually 0.5% more than advertised. Kit brewed with BKE not T&L. More by good fortune than design as it was my first attempt!

The SG seems a bit high at 1.050, it should of been nearer to 1.042.
These premium 3kg/3.6kg kits don't require any extra fermentables. How much Beerkit Enhancer did you add to the brew?

Any way, getting it down to 1.012 is a good result!

[Aes9471]

StrangeBrew asked...

The SG seems a bit high at 1.050, it should of been nearer to 1.042.
These premium 3kg/3.6kg kits don't require any extra fermentables. How much Beerkit Enhancer did you add to the brew?

The whole packet 1kg just followed the destructions iirc(!) and replaced BKE for T&L
But that would explain the sweetness in the bottles I sampled four days after being bottled, will have to eat a strong chilli/curry each time I drink the blighters just to balance the ying&yang With a 1/2 tsp to prime

[Aleman]

I've had a reply from the former brewer at Woodfordes, and he recalls the kits finishing high (But not 1.020!!), Which he favours in ales anyway so 1.014 should be around the right region. He is forwarding the email (and link to this thread) to another ex Woodfordes Brewer who was involved in the formulation of the kits to ask for his opinion . . . . FWIW he agrees with me that its probably a case of poorly mashed extract, but Muntons, like a lot of large companies, don't want to admit it

[PeteH]

I've had a reply from the former brewer at Woodfordes, and he recalls the kits finishing high (But not 1.020!!), Which he favours in ales anyway so 1.014 should be around the right region. He is forwarding the email (and link to this thread) to another ex Woodfordes Brewer who was involved in the formulation of the kits to ask for his opinion . . . . FWIW he agrees with me that its probably a case of poorly mashed extract, but Muntons, like a lot of large companies, don't want to admit it

Even if they get as low as 1014 they should ammend the packaging to say '3.5%' instead of 4 or 4.5%.

I bottled my Great Eastern last night that had got down to 1012 with just a rousing, so although I was hoping for 1010 I was quite happy.

[sparky Paul]

I've never had any 1020 failures with the Woodefordes, although I would say that they consistantly finish at the high end of what I would consider acceptable, 1015-1016. I'm sure I haven't had one finish any higher or lower. Last Wherry I did needed a rouse at around 1018, but got there in the end without having to do anything else.

They always seem to take a while to clear.

FWIW, I make no additions to the water whatsoever, the water here works well without. I always pitch yeast dry on the surface, always have.

There's definitely something different about these kits, the only reason I have continued to risk using them is because they make such good beer without any additions... ideal if I'm feeling lazy...

[lotus_elan]

hi
i am thinking about starting to home brew again and i am taken with the micro brewery concept but from this thread do the comments mean that if it sticks at 1.0020 its not nice to drink????
is it worth getting one of these micro brewery kits ????? what do you all think????

[sparky Paul]

hi
i am thinking about starting to home brew again and i am taken with the micro brewery concept but from this thread do the comments mean that if it sticks at 1.0020 its not nice to drink????
is it worth getting one of these micro brewery kits ????? what do you all think????

I've not seen these microbrewery things, but curiosity got the better of me and I just had a google. It looks like you serve the finished beer directly from the fermenter, I would not recommend this... I've left beer on the brewing sediment (trub) too long, and it does impart an unpleasant flavour on the beer. IMHO it would be far better to do any kit via the conventional method, i.e brew in a brewing bin, and once complete transfer to bottle or keg and prime. A little more work, but well worth it.

The problem with a beer finishing at 1.020 would be that it would be a little low on alcohol and a little high on sweetness, but it should be perfectly drinkable. The simple fact is that not all of the sugar intended for fermentation into alcohol has been converted, hence the problems above. A bigger problem occurs when a beer is bottled at 1.020, but continues to ferment down very slowly, building up excess CO2 in the bottles. In extreme cases, glass bottles will go bang.

When they work, the Woodeforde's kits are very good. I've never had any major problems with them, but some seem to have endless trouble with these Munton's manufactured kits.

[Blinky]

I have mentioned in another thread I kept my eye on batches especially BBE dates.
The ones I found that where stuck where dated sometime late 2008.
I have done some Wherrys since dated 2009/10 and not had a problem.

My last Muntons 'sticker' was IPA dated November 2008, the one before that was a Midus Touch, again, November 2008

too much of a coincidence for me!

My mate has bought 5 packs of the cheap Wherry they are selling for £15 on BIY, I got an email saying the BBE is July 2010- so I'll see how that goes.

[Jimjiber]

Hello - new brewer/first poster so sorry if I get the terminology wrong!

I bought a Microbrewery a couple of months back and brewed Wherry in it. It has been sitting on the dead yeast for a total of eight weeks now. It still hasn't cleared but I have still drunk around half of it!

It doesn't taste "right" but it is certainly not foul.

I then bought a fermenting bin and started a second batch of Wherry some eight days ago. I checked the SG yesterday and it seems to have stuck at 1016 or 1018 (I find the hydro hard to read accurately).

Someone on the BIY forum advised rousing the yeast with a sterilised beer paddle, which I did yesterday. The crud off the bottom is now floating around in my beer in large chunks. Not sure if that is right...

Anyway, will try transferring to my King Keg soon (I am nervous about messing that up too) and will let you know how it turns out.

Great site BTW!

[adm]

I did one of the Wherry microbrewery kits in June - first beer i ever brewed (apart from a disastrous Boots kit back in the early '80s).

It was a simple heat tin, into King Keg (top tap), top up with water, add yeast, stir....wait 3 weeks.

After 3 weeks it wasn't great, but after 6 weeks it was a lovely pint. The only reason i didn't drink it all quickly though is becuase I started all grain brewing while I was waiting for it to ferment.

Anyway - I don't know how the gravity looked early on as I didn't own a hydrometer.....but after the 6 weeks, it was about 1012 if I remember right.

No problem at all with it...although now I wouldn't want to leave a beer sitting on the trub for 6 weeks.

[jubby]

Hello jj, welcome to JBK.

You did the right thing rousing the yeast back into suspension, the only thing to remember is stir nice and gently and try not to introduce oxygen, ie do not aerate.

If your Wherry has not cleared it may be due to the temperature that you have it stored at. As a general rule, keep it in the warm at around 20-22 degrees for the first 2-3 weeks then transfer to a cooler place (garage or shed) for conditioning and it should clear.

I have sampled the Wherry brewed in these microbrewery kits and they were quiet good. However they need to be consumed within about 5 to 8 weeks. Stick with the fermenting bin, 1.016 is ok, lower would be better but don't be too concerned if it does not drop any further. It will still be good beer.
To liven it up a bit, try dry hoping. There are various methods, but for simplicity, throw a handfull of hops in the fermenting bin (FV) or in the King Keg. Woodforde's use Challenger and Goldings if I recall correctly. A Goldings tea bag works well also.

I can recommend Great Eastern Ale or Brupacks Fixby Gold kits if you want to try something different.

[Jimjiber]

Thanks jubby!

I've got a Great Eastern Ale ready to go in next!

I am very much into the whole brewing process (and very much into beer!), and I would like to get this kit lark right before progressing onto the more complex techniques.

How much longer do you think I should leave the Wherry before kegging? And is it just a case of 80g of brewing sugar and a spoonful of gunk from the bin before syphoning into the keg?

[jubby]

Once the Wherry has settled after it's rousing, move it into the King Keg. Again, nice and gently rack the beer off the sediment without aerating. I usually leave beer in the fermenter for 10 days before moving it, just to make sure it has finished. But when the gravity has remained stable for two days you can move it.

I use light brown sugar for priming 60 to 80g is good. However, if your beer has not reached it's planned final gravity, it may be a little sweet. Therefore reduce the amount of priming sugar slightly. click on 'technique' at the top of the page for Jim's instructions for priming and kegging. Don't be tempted to transfer any of the sediment into the keg, there is still plenty of yeast in suspension to eat up the priming sugars.

There are also instructions on sterilising via the 'hints and tips' link. Worth a read.

For the Great Eastern Ale, I can recommend dry hoping with Cascade hops. Very nice. Check this link. http://www.byo.com/departments/1105.html

[Jimjiber]

Thanks for the advice.

I will keg in a couple of days and will definitely get some hops for the Great Eastern!