1/2 inch stainless tubing for build with HLT thermo pot

[barneey]

For my HLT build, (consisting of an element, bottom draining outlet and water level guide) I want to use 1/2 stainless tube (screwed thread) with various s/s fittings. The problem I am incountering is the insulation depth of the ebay france thermo pots. In the middle of the pot the insulation is quite thick, around the perimeter edge the insulation is thinner, is this true of most thermo pots?


Wanting to use 1/2 inch tube is causing a few height issues with screwed elbow fittings, I have had to grind down the fittings to fit under the stainless bottom, my idea was to cause as little distrubance to the bottom and the rim of the pot as possible. To holesaw a hole in the side of the tank and in the bottom, use a long drill to get the insulation material out and screw fit the whole lot together. BTW the plug on the end of the tee is for drainage of the sight tube.

Has anyone else gone down the 1/2 pipe route? I have attached a copy of photos of progress so far, showing the elbow in its grind down state.

[Beardy]

I've got the bits to do just this, so will be following this thread great interest. Nice to know someone is blazing the trail

[Johnnyboy]

Hi,

I had a a 80lt Thermobox converted last year into a bottom draining HLT, and fitted two Backers elements into the side wall, Was sweating buckets while my work fabricator mate hacked into it with his hole saw!!!

Just a thought while reading your post. Are you having the sight tube feeding off the bottom outlet, or will it have its own hole? I was going to pipe one off my main outlet, but was advised on this forum that the water level would fluctulate and not give an accurate reading when drawing water.

As for using one for a HLT. They are fantastic, get water up to temperature and it stays just right.

John.

[barneey]

Hi,

I had a a 80lt Thermobox converted last year into a bottom draining HLT, and fitted two Backers elements into the side wall, Was sweating buckets while my work fabricator mate hacked into it with his hole saw!!!

Just a thought while reading your post. Are you having the sight tube feeding off the bottom outlet, or will it have its own hole? I was going to pipe one off my main outlet, but was advised on this forum that the water level would fluctulate and not give an accurate reading when drawing water.

As for using one for a HLT. They are fantastic, get water up to temperature and it stays just right.

John.

Hi John,

The sight glass will have its own separate bottom outlet (ie one for the main tap and one for the sight glass - both bottom fed) as you say after reading on hear (I think vossey or jubby) it is not a good idea to have them on the same pipe as the water level is not accurate.

[Aleman]

I had some nipples custom made for me for my Thermobox brewery . . .Unfortunately the chap doesn't do it any more

[barneey]

Well I started this morning and have nearly finished the HLT with the 1/2 inch stainless pipe. The 1/2 pipework idea does work, but needs a little refinement.

Drill a hole in the bottom skin where ever you need an outlet (mine were 75mm diameter - same size as the hole for the mashmaster) let the drill touch the inside skin to mark it for future centre reference, drill a 21mm hole for the skin fitting through the inner skin.

Drill a hole in the side wall 21mm diameter, get yourself a long drill bit, poke it through the the 21mm hole and drill the insulation material out until you get to the 75mm diameter hole. Thread your skin fitting through the bottom and into the elbow, push your length of 1/2 pipe (threaded both ends) through the insulation, thread into the elbow and what ever fitting you have on the outside.

The only problem I encountered was due to having a central mounted element my outlet holes were quite close to the edge of the pot in-order to get the skin fitting to lay flat on the bottom of the tank I had to cut a slit so it would sit properly. This might not be a problem if the outlet hole was further away. In any case I have thought of a better idea, when I get around to doing the mash tun (still waiting the blichmann false bottom so cannot drill yet) I will grind a flat on the pipe for the last 20mm so the slit won`t be needed.

If you were to use copper pipe as most people tend to do the, no slits or grinding would be necessary, but I wanted everything shiney.

The slight glass has its own separate feed and tee blanking piece to enable the water held in the u bend to drain.

I have attached a few photos, from them you will also see I have used both a section of nipple, and a section of barrel to experiment to see which was the most suitable, I recon the barrel being the prefered option.

The HLT nearly finished

The inside of the HLT

The underside of the HLT

Will have to water test the thing, wire the element, and cut 3 blanks for the holes and find a stainless nut for the original tap fitting.

Just incase you are wondering why the original tap is on there? three reasons , 1. I didnt have anything else to fit the pre-made hole - 2. I will use the tap to fine adjust the the level of the water- 3. Usefull for drawing water off to make a drink if the ball valve is connected to other pipework in the system

[T5FAU]

Very neat.

I did something similar a few months ago, a 25L thermopot with a burco element mounted the same. My bottom drain was also a right PITA to fit because of the shallow insulation and because it had to fit at the side. Do look and work very well as HLT's those thermoboxes though.

How are you wiring the element ? I drilled a hole in the metel bottom rim so it let the cable run through the insulation and popout in the centre hole space, worked out perfectly.

[barneey]

Very neat.

I did something similar a few months ago, a 25L thermopot with a burco element mounted the same. My bottom drain was also a right PITA to fit because of the shallow insulation and because it had to fit at the side. Do look and work very well as HLT's those thermoboxes though.

How are you wiring the element ? I drilled a hole in the metel bottom rim so it let the cable run through the insulation and popout in the centre hole space, worked out perfectly.

Hi (& thanks), Yep was thinking of the same idea, heavy duty cable, hole with grommet on the outside run through the insulation. My only fear was if the cable wasnt heavy duty enough it wouldnt beable to carry as much current through the insulation before it burns?

[barneey]

Well I have water tested the HLT today and the bottom outlets were a PITA to seal, however to make the skin fittings sit a little better all I did was to grind of a little more off the elbow (see first picture, the middle elbow has now no visible shoulder) and fitted a large diameter ss washer to spread the load. I have also fitted a washer between the pot and the tap, elbows, tees this also prevents any flexing. Replaced the nut on the original fitting with a ss one, replaced the nipple for barrel, replaced the drain off with a square one as it looked better, so apart from the John Guess fitting /poly pipe, a few sealing washers, a little JB compound everything is stainless

[Kev888]

Looking very smart!! Must have been a challenge to make it all fit between the two skins.

I like the idea of going with stainless throughout; I've got some brass/copper in my current setup and it means taking more care with cleaning options. Not a major issue for a HLT perhaps, but with my setup being out in the damp garage the copper in particular can form verdigris, which is apparently unhealthy.

Cheers
kev

[barneey]

Looking very smart!! Must have been a challenge to make it all fit between the two skins.

I like the idea of going with stainless throughout; I've got some brass/copper in my current setup and it means taking more care with cleaning options. Not a major issue for a HLT perhaps, but with my setup being out in the damp garage the copper in particular can form verdigris, which is apparently unhealthy.

Cheers
kev

Kev (edit) if you ever want any lengths of 1/2 inch ss pipe either threaded or plain ended let me know as I had to buy a 3m length for my build so have quite abit left over (I know your after 3/4 at the moment but alas I dont have any of that).

Regards

Clive

[Kev888]

Thanks for the offer, but yeah - sadly my system is set up for 3/4" so I thought I'd standardise on that (I found some on ebay now, though its probably more expensive).

If you're like me then you'll use it eventually in any case; I got a length of polycarbonate sight tube some time ago thinking I realy wanted a shorter bit, but I'm now heading towards making my third one and I'm pleased I have enough left!

Cheers
Kev