OLD! Burco Tap removal

[Russ]

Hi

I've just got a very old Burco viewtopic.php?f=6&t=32768 and need to change the tap. I've done this before on another old Burco and it was easy with a large allen key in the back of the tap. On this one however there is nothing only a nut on the outside that I've unscrewed. I've tried trurning the tap with grips, hitting it, everything but it wont yeild. Any ideas short of getting the grinder out?





Cheers

Russ

[Tony01]

HI Russ, I have some pics somewhere on doing this. I found (by putting a mirror inside and looking into the hole) that two sides of the hole were very slightly flattened.
I had some wirestrippers that I found fitted into the hole and held against the flat while I turned the tap.

If this is what you have, let me know and I'll post up a couple of pics. Sounds like I may be talking about your previous burco though.

[Russ]

Thanks Tony but I'm pretty sure this is a diffrent set up

Looks to me like the tap is soldered to the body of the boiler

No sign of any flats anyehere (see pics if now added on the OP)

Think I may have to leave the old tap on, leave it open and atatch some 1'' silicone hose to it with pipe clips then a 22mm to 15mm copper reducer and a 15mm ball valve. Not the neatest solution but less risky than getting the grinder out.

Cheers

Russ

[Tony01]

I see what you mean!
Is there anyway you can just leave the tap closed and put a new tap in next to it?

[Russ]

Well the existing tap drips even when fully closed so not great. It also drips when open (from places it shouldn't ) though I've cured this by using PTFE on the tap thread.

Re fitting a new tap next to it as the boiler it's double skinned (galvernised outside then a seperate inner copper tank) I'm a bit worried about getting a seal with a tank connecter.

begining to think I wish I'd never seen it now .......I might admit defeat, scrap it and just build myself a new Mango chutney boiler.......

[jubby]

Sounds like the same boiler that i use. The tap washer can be replaced by removing the small 'stop' screw on top of the tap body, then unscrew the tap until it comes out. You will see the washer.
I haven't read the old post fully, so i may have repeated some info. Too lazy and in a rush.

[jubby]

Ah, i have just seen your photo's which took ages to load because i am using dodgy wifi, so disregard my stupid post above.

[Russ]

Thanks Jubby

No your right about the washer replacement. I still wanted to get rid of the tap and replace it with a ball valve though even if I could stop it leaking. I'm thinking the time I'm wasting on this old thing I'd be better building myself a Mango chutney boiler.

Cheers

Russ

[Kev888]

Can't quite see how it fits together, but it must have been in two parts originally (as neither side looks to fit through the hole in the tank.) If they're screwed together you could try feeding it with penetrating oil or wd40 for a while and then maybe borrowing a bigger wrench. Or, perhaps a little more riskily you could try heating it with a blow torch if you have one (gently so as not to melt it if its got stuff like aluminium, zinc or lead components) as expansion/contraction can help to crack crud and corrosion in joints. Though don't heat and squirt wd40 at the same time!!

I guess it 'could' all be soldered up and have no useable thread, but even if the internal flange is soldered in I'd have still 'thought' it more likely that the tap body itself would be removable/replacable somehow. Sadly my burco isn't the same, so sorry i can't give you any more specific advice. Its a nice big metal pot though - my envy alarm is bleeping very gently anyway - so good luck with it.

Cheers,
Kev

[Russ]

Hi Kev888

I got the blow torch on it and it's yeilded

The tap body screwed out leaving a 1'' BSP female thread (I think). I must be able to do something with this, just got to work out how to fit a tap and hop strainer combo. Going to look at the Screwfix book to see what looks favorite.

EDIT

It's a 3/4 inch BSP female thread so a Male 3/4 to 15mm straight coupler drilled through, a length of 15mm copper pipe and a 15mm ball valve should make it good.

Cheers

Russ

[Kev888]

Yay! Great news. I've tried that trick a few times and it has often worked for me. Believe it or not i first saw it on a documentary about tank restoration, although in many ways its probably easier with massive chunks of robust steel.

Good luck with the thread - if its a common size it could actually be helpful for once! I'm a fan of metal for boilers (ever since a plastic one split and spilled boiling wort everywhere in a big tidal wave!) so I hope it comes together for you at last.

Cheers,
kev

[Russ]

Cheers Kev

I too like the idea of a metal boiler, I just wish it was stainless Copper will have to do for the moment, just got to get buffing now to make sure its all nice and clean.

Cheers

Russ