Which element?

[Cpt.Frederickson]

I'm struggling to decide on which elements to use in by new boiler build and wondered what peoples experiences are.

Going the HBB/Mr.Lard route but torn between 2x 2.4kw elements or one of the 3kw elements in a 50 litre kettle. Would be running from a standard socket in my shed via an extension lead (good up to 3120w).

The question is...which should I go for? I've heard the 3kw elements can be pushing it a bit on 13amps (although I know f**k all about electrics so don't know why) but if I went for two elements I'd have to run an extension from the house for the second element.

WWJD?

[oakwell]

i have 2 x 2.4 kW elements in my 50l boiler and usually boil 32-33 litres of wort. one element can handle this and the other is there as back up should the first element fail. 3kW should be ok and depending on your boil volume you might want to consider the evaporation rate and whether a voltage controller would help

[rossi74]

3kw = 13.04A so yes you'll be right on the edge. 13A fuse in a plug top wont go straight Away but will start to over heat after a while.

[themadhippy]

3kw = 13.04A so yes you'll be right on the edge.

maybe,all depends on the voltage raiting of the element AND the supply voltage,the uk is supposidly on 230V but due to tolarance allowances its nearer 240V and often upto 250v. so a 3kw 230v element on 240v will draw 13.6A whislt a 3kw 240v element on 240v will only draw 12.5A,great fun this electrickery

[crookedeyeboy]

Peco Services, great elements: http://www.pecoservices.co.uk/spare-ele ... 5-21-p.asp

[masterosouffle]

I'd always recommend two over one, as back up and for speed of getting to boil - you can then turn one off.

If I were buying elements today I'd get the LWD ones from Mr Lard

[Cpt.Frederickson]

I'd always recommend two over one, as back up and for speed of getting to boil - you can then turn one off.

If I were buying elements today I'd get the LWD ones from Mr Lard

Wouldn't that be overkill in 50 litres? I can only assume that Satan inspired you, being that was your 666th post...

[chastuck]

I decided to think big when it came to elements in my new brewery setup. I was also concerned that the existing 13 amp ring main would be inadequate as my wiring system, although less than 15 years old, was pretty much near its limit at the consumer unit due to the increased power loads of the modern domestic situation; i.e., washing machines, dishwasher, TV in every room, electric shower, electric double cooker, etc. So the first thing I did was to fit a secondary consumer unit that can take 63 amps. From this I ran a dedicated 32 amp line using 43 amp cable to a 32 amp Commando socket and a dedicated 16 amp line to a double 13 amp socket. I brew on the patio, so both the commando socket and double 13 amp socket are outdoors and weatherproof. I have a 100L boil kettle and a 100L HLT. In both these pots I use a stainless steel 5500w low watt density element from here: http://brewmation.com/Heating_Elements.html. In addition, I have fitted a 2400w SS element in each from here: http://www.angelhomebrew.co.uk/en/kettl ... t-kit.html. Thus in each pot in theory I have 7900w, although in practice due to line resistance the combined output is just over 7250W. The elements are controlled via PIDs in my Control Unit and each pot when on full takes around 32 amps. 22 amps of this goes through the Control Unit connected to the commando socket and 10 amps goes through a separate relay switch box connected to the 13 amp socket. The relay switch box is connected to the PID control control lines and the output relay control lines in the Control Unit, so the two elements in each pot work in tandem. See pictures below of control system.









It may look like overkill, but it gives me immense flexibility over heating requirements.

[Cpt.Frederickson]

I decided to think big when it came to elements in my new brewery setup. I was also concerned that the existing 13 amp ring main would be inadequate as my wiring system, although less than 15 years old, was pretty much near its limit at the consumer unit due to the increased power loads of the modern domestic situation; i.e., washing machines, dishwasher, TV in every room, electric shower, electric double cooker, etc. So the first thing I did was to fit a secondary consumer unit that can take 63 amps. From this I ran a dedicated 32 amp line using 43 amp cable to a 32 amp Commando socket and a dedicated 16 amp line to a double 13 amp socket. I brew on the patio, so both the commando socket and double 13 amp socket are outdoors and weatherproof. I have a 100L boil kettle and a 100L HLT. In both these pots I use a stainless steel 5500w low watt density element from here: http://brewmation.com/Heating_Elements.html. In addition, I have fitted a 2400w SS element in each from here: http://www.angelhomebrew.co.uk/en/kettl ... t-kit.html. Thus in each pot in theory I have 7900w, although in practice due to line resistance the combined output is just over 7250W. The elements are controlled via PIDs in my Control Unit and each pot when on full takes around 32 amps. 22 amps of this goes through the Control Unit connected to the commando socket and 10 amps goes through a separate relay switch box connected to the 13 amp socket. The relay switch box is connected to the PID control control lines and the output relay control lines in the Control Unit, so the two elements in each pot work in tandem. See pictures below of control system.









It may look like overkill, but it gives me immense flexibility over heating requirements.

Wow. I just crapped myself. Bit beyond my financial and technical means!

[lord groan]

The stingy approach
My homemade boiler has 2 elements, both scavenged from Earlex steam wallpaper strippers, they are roughly 2000w each. I bought the strippers at a car boot sale for £2.50 and £2.00. With them came the hot condition kettle leads. I chose these because at the time of the build;
1. I was doing it as cheaply as possible
2. Steamers are designed to run continuously so the elements can cope with a 90 minute boil
3. I knew the elements would only ever have had tap water to boil, nothing nasty.
Getting power leads that usually cost about £5 'free' with the elements was great, I did feel bad smashing up two functional steamers but needs must!
Tip: If you go down this line always unscrew the steamer tank lid, push the rubber safety flap to one side so you can see the element and check for green staining, if there is any it means the element has started corroding so best to avoid, shiny or white limescaled elements are fine
hth

Edit BTW - boiler is about 45l, I bring it to boil using both elements, and then switch one off, although it will boil with just one

[Fil]

from my own experience with elements I can recommend tesco budget elements or similar for ease of replacement and cost, i ran 2 for I usually say about 20 but defo 17 brews in a mango barrel without issue once i pulled the overheating protection out, the downside was the crud burnt on, which if attacked straight away after a rinse out with a scrubby was a dodddle to get off, if left needed a citric acid soak.. I cant say my beer ever tasted scorched tho ??

also 1.5kw ebay kettle elements via china for about £7.50, search ebay for kettle elements organise to buy it now and by price cheap +pnp first and they will be there.. the ones with the red plastic backing shroud.. - ran 2 in a 67l pp bucket hlt heating 50l off a single mains plug thru a pid/ssr - when lidded and without insulation a boil was reached but take the lid off and it died.. cracking lil elements tho and the supplied gasket is perfect for SS pots, but will need a mod for thicker walled vessels .

Mrlards LWD 2.4 and 3kw 100% SS elements, after a few bargain biggys which turned out to be lemons, i invested in these.. after a 90 min boil a thin ?calcium? coating and no crud was evident on the elements, so no chance of scorching.... top jobs..

Belters Elements elements elements thread is a good list of what not to invest in..

[Cpt.Frederickson]

Thanks for all the replies gents.
I'm committed to one of Mr.Lard's builds because I don't want anymore faffing or upgrading for the foreseeable future so saving a few quid on elements isn't my main priority but good info to have.
Think I'll opt for the 2.4kw's as I can't upgrade my existing electrics (rental property) and I wouldn't be confident to push it that much.
Thanks again all. Now back to my whirlpool chiller design...