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Hot water cylinder tipping mash tun build

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Re: Hot water cylinder tipping mash tun build

Postby PoppaZombie » Wed Mar 15, 2017 1:13 am

Kev888 wrote:Yet more very useful progress!

For continuous (or fly) sparging, the false bottom would ideally cover the whole base to maximise evenness of flow, but an inch around the edge is quite trivial - I seriously doubt you'd notice any difference at all. With batch sparging there will be even less impact (in fact some would prefer breaks in the drainage to help reduce compaction when draining).

Though yes, if it were to move around (say when mashing in) and ride up on the radius at the edge of the base then you could see a gap letting more/bigger bits of grain out than is normal (you will always get fine particles when initially running off). If that happens, some method of keeping the FB central may be needed; maybe some spacers around the edge or a small pin poking down into the central/bottom drain? But nothing too tight or rigid in a way that could prevent the weight of grain pressing the FB firmly against the pot base.

Hope the test goes well. If testing with water, you can normally expect that heat loss with grain will be a little better.


I like the idea of keeping the fb central using a pin or rod down into the outlet. Maybe a SS bolt with washers? It could also handily plug the hole in the Fb where the upward elbow outlet has been removed. Obviously it would also have to be narrow enough as to not inhibit too much flow into the bottom drain. Decisions, decisions... Thanks Kev
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Re: Hot water cylinder tipping mash tun build

Postby PoppaZombie » Wed Mar 15, 2017 1:20 am

Hogarth wrote:That looks awesome, Poppazombie. Nice work. 8) 8)

Could make a handy butter churn too. :lol:


Thanks Hogarth :D
High cholesterol for me! :lol:
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Re: Hot water cylinder tipping mash tun build

Postby PoppaZombie » Wed Mar 15, 2017 1:24 am

orlando wrote:Slitting some silicon tubing and fitting to the rim of the false bottom should take up a little of the gap between it and the actual bottom and help take up any small dents.


Ah yes, I've seen this a lot on pics but wasn't too sure if I needed it. Do people use the hard beer line or the soft vinyl type of stuff? Also, in something this big do I have to worry about supporting the dome of the fb? It feels really solid to me but is it in danger of flattening out?
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Re: Hot water cylinder tipping mash tun build

Postby orlando » Wed Mar 15, 2017 7:53 am

PoppaZombie wrote:
orlando wrote:Slitting some silicon tubing and fitting to the rim of the false bottom should take up a little of the gap between it and the actual bottom and help take up any small dents.


Ah yes, I've seen this a lot on pics but wasn't too sure if I needed it. Do people use the hard beer line or the soft vinyl type of stuff? Also, in something this big do I have to worry about supporting the dome of the fb? It feels really solid to me but is it in danger of flattening out?


I've used both and prefer the softer stuff, platinum cured seems to be the best. As for the FB, mine is flat with spacer bolts so don't have experience of that sort, but logically a real concern. An MT of that size could have a lot of grain dumped on top of it which absorbs its own weight in water so by the time you get to the end of draining the wort it could be supporting a lot of weight.
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Re: Hot water cylinder tipping mash tun build

Postby aamcle » Wed Mar 15, 2017 8:40 am

I may have missed something but when it's heavy with a mash and as it's tipped won't the weight cause the insulation to be damaged/compressed by the metal support bands?

Makes my kit look primitive....... :(

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Re: Hot water cylinder tipping mash tun build

Postby PoppaZombie » Tue Mar 21, 2017 1:26 am

aamcle wrote:I may have missed something but when it's heavy with a mash and as it's tipped won't the weight cause the insulation to be damaged/compressed by the metal support bands?


I guess you can't tell from the photos but the insulation on the cylinder is very hard. It feels pretty rock solid. It has no give or flex at all so I can't see it deforming. The bands are torqued very tight but the insulation didn't show any sign of crushing.
Hopefully I'll get the outlet and ventilation finished this week ready for the first brew in the next few weeks or so :lol:
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