Shiny bottling gun
Steve Flack:
'Buttons' bottle cleaner is very handy as in the bench capper, the bottle tree and a big sprayer for peracetic. Pipette for priming syrup. Milk crates. The worst job was removing labels; but now we only use Pilsner bottles and German brewery labels soak off easily, them being so eco-conscious. Derby Beer Festival continental beer stand can supply several hundred per year.
You don't think I stoop to bottling, do you? Actually, while Janette does all the cleaning we do bottle together. The secret weapon is a digital radio with a recording device so we can listed to Peter Tinniswoode, Kenneth Horne or whatever. The radio is a good companion when labelling bottles too.Yeah David, how do you bottle beer without wanting to get out the razor blades? I wouldn't mind entering a competition but I've only bottled a few times, hated every second of it and vowed never to do it again.
'Buttons' bottle cleaner is very handy as in the bench capper, the bottle tree and a big sprayer for peracetic. Pipette for priming syrup. Milk crates. The worst job was removing labels; but now we only use Pilsner bottles and German brewery labels soak off easily, them being so eco-conscious. Derby Beer Festival continental beer stand can supply several hundred per year.
Daab:
Bottling - we rack to another bucket then after a couple of days settling bottle through the standard Brupaks bottle filling stick http://www.brupaks.com/filling%20siphoning.htm
We had two Phil's fillers and they both drew air, hardly a bright idea when bottling.
Choose a flocculent yeast (Notts / S-04 / Fullers), aim for a low yeast count at bottling, choose darker beers and present the beer once everyone's past caring! It was 1100og Amarillo taste explosion!I recall someone mentioning you turning up to the North Hants Brewers club with a particularly good bottled beer, how do you move your bottled beers around without disturbing the sediment, I assumed you used a bottling widget like the bottling gun but obviously not?
Bottling - we rack to another bucket then after a couple of days settling bottle through the standard Brupaks bottle filling stick http://www.brupaks.com/filling%20siphoning.htm
We had two Phil's fillers and they both drew air, hardly a bright idea when bottling.
No maturing unless for convenience because I'm away. This is one of the things I disagree with GW about (cower). It's what I call his 'noxious effluvia' theory that beers need months in cask first. I acknowledge that conditioning in bulk will happen more quickly, but my beers have gone down well enough in competition to make me unconvinced that bulk conditioning is essential.Do you do any maturation before bottling or do you rack from fermenter to bottling bucket to bottle.
Just a 3mm pippette. Multidose would be better I suppose, but when listening to the radio time is not of the essence.I notice the bit about priming syrup. Do you use a syringe or a multidose pippete?
I offered our head brewer one and he said if there was £800 going he'd better things to spend it on. Also I like comparing yeasts and £1600 seems a lot. I'm not a handyman type unlike many here.If I was to bottle it would reasonably bright beer straight from the racking arm of a conical fermenter.
100g sugar + 250 ml water gives about 300ml which is then reduced a little by boiling to sterilise. So each dose is about 1g of sugar - about a quarter teaspoon. It gives us enough carbonation, because we're aiming for something like cask ale not bottled. I should think you could make a syrup thick enough to get 2g/dose.presumably it gives you the equivalent of 1/2 tsp of sugar per 3ml squirt
Note too we don't wait ages for the beer to dry out before bottling - there will be some residual sugar.