Tank thermostst
Tank thermostst
I want to heat my hot liqor tank to an exact temperature. A cylinder stat from a domestic hot water system is not accurate enough and hard to adjust a couple of degrees. Any idea where I can get a more accurate tank stat?
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Re: Tank thermostst
Normal hot water tank stats will only heat too about 70c, so not high enough to provide hot liquor for preheating the mash tun or for sparging.
You will need extra electronic controls.
Several setups on here use PID control, me included, but is seen by some to be a bit ott.
Other simple thermostats are available that will control your heater element.
Maybe other brewers with relevant setups can provide more details.
You will need extra electronic controls.
Several setups on here use PID control, me included, but is seen by some to be a bit ott.
Other simple thermostats are available that will control your heater element.
Maybe other brewers with relevant setups can provide more details.
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Re: Tank thermostst
I've just bought temp gauge from mashmaster.com for about £27 deliverred and also a qmax cutter 12.5mm to put hole in my birco. The gauges are specific to brewing.
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Re: Tank thermostst
I bought one of these HERE from this seller, which can be fitted into your HLT/Boiler and is happy to switch loads of 16A, so fine for kettle elements or immersion heaters.mattkee wrote:I want to heat my hot liqor tank to an exact temperature. A cylinder stat from a domestic hot water system is not accurate enough and hard to adjust a couple of degrees. Any idea where I can get a more accurate tank stat?
The one listed only goes up to 90c but if you speak to the seller, he can get one that covers 40C to 120C, so it's ideal for strike water + the rolling boil afterwards.
I haven't got round to fitting mine yet but from memory, it has a 1/2" thermowell, that screw into your HLT/Boiler & the sensor part just slides into this & is held in place via a screw. So it's possible to leave the thermwell in place & remove the thermostat.
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Re: Tank thermostst
It is possible to adjust the range on a tank stat but it is fiddly (and I ain't sure this is possible with all of them).mixbrewery wrote:Normal hot water tank stats will only heat too about 70c, so not high enough to provide hot liquor for preheating the mash tun or for sparging.
You need to take it apart and inside you will see the temperature adjuster assembly. This is a rotating knob with a cogged level for the user to adjust the temperature. You need to pull off the level and refit it at a position the give you the correct temp range.
If you search t'interenet to see what the biodieselers do then somebody will have some clearer instructions. I have done this myself on a biodiesel rig. It does take a bit of fiddling to find various temps and is not very accurate. Well not as accurate as digital temp controller. It does require some testing to make sure you achieve the correct adjustment. I seem to recall sticking it in a pan of boiling water and testing for continuity across the sensor or hearing the click or something like that (it was a few years ago) to check the correct range had been achieved.
An alternative is to use a cooker thermostat.
Re: Tank thermostst
RS Components do a 0-120degC capillary thermostat
I have just taken delivery of one but have not got around to fitting it yet
I have just taken delivery of one but have not got around to fitting it yet
Re: Tank thermostst
I guess its this one?cockneyron wrote:RS Components do a 0-120degC capillary thermostat
I have just taken delivery of one but have not got around to fitting it yet
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear ... 284#header
If so I would be interested in seeing how you fit it?
Re: Tank thermostst
Yup thats the one.
I made a thermowell from a ss set bolt.
I drilled it out from the head end to a reasonably close fit for the capillary bulb. (when in use smear with some heat transfer paste.)
I turned down the thread of the bolt to give a wall thickness of 2mm,but I left 30mm of thread intact at the head end.
This enabled me to fit it through the tank wall and capture it with a ss nut and seal it with a fibre washer.
I stripped the innards out of an old heater control box and mounted the control section in that and drilled through the face for the control knob.
Sorry I can't sends pics but I am away from home at the present.
I made a thermowell from a ss set bolt.
I drilled it out from the head end to a reasonably close fit for the capillary bulb. (when in use smear with some heat transfer paste.)
I turned down the thread of the bolt to give a wall thickness of 2mm,but I left 30mm of thread intact at the head end.
This enabled me to fit it through the tank wall and capture it with a ss nut and seal it with a fibre washer.
I stripped the innards out of an old heater control box and mounted the control section in that and drilled through the face for the control knob.
Sorry I can't sends pics but I am away from home at the present.