Help with ball valve tap!

[crookedeyeboy]

I am useless at trying to sort out home DIY and am really struggling to get the ball valve tap fitted to my mash tun.

I went to Screwfix and bought what I thought was the perfect fitting so that I could run 15mm pipe in to the mash tun and connect the manifold whilst on the other end attach the ball valve tap and hey presto a lovely tap system.
However the coupler i bought from Screwfix is ok one end but then too small at the other!! So only one end of the fitting is of any use.

Can someone please tell me the simplest way to so this, I have no blow torch either, is this something else I am going to have to invest in!?!?!?

[CJBrew]

I guess you bought a "Tank Coupler"

This is designed so you fit the tube in one side and clamp it in with the compression fitting, and the other side (the flat end) goes into the pot.

For our uses you need the tube going right through. I have done 3 of these recently.

The first one, I did with a circular file, just scrub away inside the tube until you've filed away the flange and a 15mm tube will go through. Do be careful that you file it evenly and keep checking when you're nearly there -- this would avoid the chance of leaks a bit.

The second and third I drilled through the narrowed part with a 15mm bit, using the pillar drill in the workshop here at work. Much easier, but if you don't have access to a pillar drill or such a big bit, just use a file, it's fine....

[CJBrew]

Plus, a tip, go back to Screwfix and get a pack of PTFE tape -- it's about 1.50 for 10 reels.

You want the long threaded bit of the coupler on the outside of the boiler. Put some PTFE on the outer thread near the boiler wall, and wind it around clockwise (same direction as tightening the outer nut).

I have used Polythene washers behind the outer nut -- available in a pack of 5 from Homebase for about £1.50 or something -- you may not really need it but I felt I should use something on that joint. (It may not stand up to the temperature... I don't know yet!)

Then you also want PTFE on the compression joint. I found it is best to get your copper tube sticking through in just the right place, then budge the olive ring up right against the coupler. Wrap PTFE a few turns around the olive and the threads then tighten on the nut.

You may find you need 2 compression fitting spanners if you don't have them already. £2 from screwfix (I had to go back and get a second)

[CJBrew]

You want the long threaded bit of the coupler on the outside of the boiler. Put some PTFE on the outer thread near the boiler wall, and wind it around clockwise (same direction as tightening the outer nut).

Actually I am not totally sure whether the threaded bit of the tank connector should be inside or out -- but it's a lot easier to wrap the PTFE and tighten stuff up if it's outside.

[chris_reboot]

I've just filed out the core of the tank connector till you can push through some 15mm pipe, then the compression joint on the outside seals it.
ball valve then attached to the outside end of the 15mm pushed through pipe.

voila.

[crookedeyeboy]

Thanks I dont know why I didnt think of filing it myself!

Just thought i had bought the wrong thing haha!

Will have a go tonight as I really dont like the plastic taps...theres no control, not only that I spent £6-7 bloody quid on the tap!

[CJBrew]

Will have a go tonight as I really dont like the plastic taps...theres no control, not only that I spent £6-7 bloody quid on the tap!

I agree, they're rubbish. I had a plastic barrel tap on my Mash Tun for a long long time until I (recently) replaced it with a shiny ball valve. Helped by tips on this great forum

Planning to refurb (Clean, PaintOverRust-ing and metal tap install) on my big washboiler tonight. I did the little HLT one yesterday and it looks rather good, if you ignore the shite paint job I did on the rusty bits

[crookedeyeboy]

I havent got time to be at work I want to be at home tinkering around with my equipment! and brewing....