Temperature controller

[Blackaddler]

Thanks, that's good to know.

[edit1now]

Multimeter set to 0-20V DC, red probe on terminal 7, black probe on terminal 6. Assuming the thermocouple is across 1 & 3, the right way round, and the menu is set to accept a thermocouple rather than a Pt100, then if the LED on the panel lights to say the TM-48 is calling for heating (or cooling) - check the Set temperature (SV) - then you should get 12V for the SSR out, which your multimeter will register.

Is there a sticky label or engraved thing which tells you the sub-model, e.g. TM-48-16-P-P-C-200-N for PID mode, Pt100 (ANSI), 12V SSR, normal heating, 0-200°C, normal alarm output...? That's the way many electrical things are specified e.g. modular switches.

The blurb suggests there should be control over the parameters via an Auxiliary mode, maybe by holding-down the Function key. Have you got any more pages of handout?

[Blackaddler]

Yes, there is another page, with the setup operation. I've now uploaded it here... http://www.flickr.com/photos/44488299@N06/4096445290/

I've programmed it for a K type thermocouple, and set up for heating. The TC makes an audible click when the light comes on, so that side of things appear to be OK.

Also, here's a pic of the TC, showing the ON light, so I should be getting a reading on the multimeter, but getting nothing.http://www.flickr.com/photos/44488299@N06/4095737645/

No designation markings on the TC, by the way.

[edit1now]

Sorry for the delay - I haven't had a chance to get on JBK for ages.

Thanks for uploading the second page for the manual - now I can see what's going on. There doesn't seem to be a control for whether you get relay or SSR control, so either your unit didn't come with the SSR output in the spec, or it's burnt-out somehow. The click suggests you have a working relay though

You could use the relay to drive an SSR via (e.g.) a 9V battery or some kind of 12V power supply, or indeed to drive a bigger electromechanical relay for your heater or fridge.

Check the relay outputs with your multimeter on Ohms - you get a changeover contact with 7 as the common terminal and either 6 or 8 connected to it. The multimeter should read less than a ohm on the closed pair of terminals and more-or-less infinity on the open pair.

[Blackaddler]

Before I do any more testing, this is how the wiring was when I received it.

Terminal 10 is looped to 7. Is that correct? It doesn't seem right to me. [Note signs of heat damage on terminal 6].

[edit1now]

Terminal 10 must be the mains Live input, and it's been looped to 7 (relay common) so that 6 goes live when the controller is calling for heat. Someone's tried to run a big load on that relay, or had such a bad connection that it's arced a bit and heated up.

[Blackaddler]

Well, I suppose it's worth a try, wiring it up in a similar fashion.

I'd assumed that terminal 7 became live once the relay was activated. Perhaps that's not the case.

I should be getting an SSR in the post, this week, so I'll try that first.