And Another kettle element question

[Deebee]

After much waiting i finally got the chance to drill out my mango Chutney barrel yesterday and fit the 2 silicone washers from the tesco kettle elements Garth was kind enough to get for me.

I drilled a hole of 38 mm and initially thought this was too small as the element seemed to be a bit "puckered". but after a little swearing in sub zero temperatures they fittied into place. So i had a look at the elements and have a question in regard to these.

I see that the elements have 2 slightly different sized small metal "switches" on them as well as a small spring loaded rod.

From reading various threads here i understand that the switches are the auto cut off and the main power swith, and the little rod is also to do with the auto cut off.

I put these away and thought i would consult the " plastic boiler" experts here in order for me not to bodge the elements.

so i have a few questions and hope someone might be able to help me. All being well i'll get a bucket of water in the boiler soon in order to test for leaks and then a test boil at some stage when i know SWMBO is going to be ut for a couple of hours!

here are the things i need some help with:-

1 Do i need to remove both metal "switches" on the element and if so how?

2 Assuming i need to only remove the springloaded metal rod, how do i do this?

3. When using the elements do i have to manually turn them on, or does just connecting them to the mains do this?

4. For safety reasons i would rather not get too near the live bits to swith these things on, so i wonder if it would be possible /viable to use a small "in line" light swith ( like you find on small table lamps) to act as on/off switches. This would make turning off one or other element during the boil easier.

Thanks so much for the help.

[EccentricDyslexic]

I think these are similar to Argos value elements, did you see my video on you tube showing how to remove them? there are 2 bimetalic disk/switches, one has white paste on it where it touches the back of the element when its all screwed together, leave this one for safety just in case you run dry and over heat. to remove the disks just pull them off.

hope this helps

steve

[Deebee]

Thansk Steve.

No i never saw the video.

So the larger of the 2 discs( with the paste can be left on.)

The smaller one is the auto cut off i guess. Do i just pull this off and thats it? and what about the small white rod?

What about switching on and off? is this just by plugging in to the mains or can i uuse a cable mounted switch?

[wetdog]

I created a thread showing how to remove the element from a tesco kettle as can be seen here;
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=27961&p=302949&hili ... nt#p302949

I have never pulled the little rod from any of the kettle elements I've fitted and never had a problem with cut offs.
As for a safety switch, if you make a shroud as shown in the element removal thread then you can plug your kettle lead into the element and when you want to switch it on simply plug the other end into the mains and remove from mains when you want to switch it off. That way you will never have your hands near the back of the element while it is live.
I think this would be better than cutting into the kettle lead to fit a switch to it.

[Deebee]

here is what i have of element bits.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a299/ ... C01881.jpg

There are 2 discs one with a white paste on and the other without . I am guessing that the one without can just be oulled out and i am good to do. i'll leave the lights on as it is a nice way of knowing what element is on.

i'll go digging for a mastic tube afterwards, when i know it all fits and does not leak.....

[tubthumper]

do not use a light switch to turn on element they are only rated for 6 amps at best and you kettle elements are probably 10 amps so you will soon blow tha lamp switch up , if you want to switch it then use a proper spur switch rated for 13 amps http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CM2368.html and a patress box monted on a piece of wood or make your own extension lead up with a swiched socket and plug into that.
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CM2346.html
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CM1042.html
some cable rated at 13 amps or better
and plug to suit

if you got 2 elements then make 2 leads and plug them into different sockets

[Deebee]

Thanks Gents. time to get those elements in place then leak test. Boil will have to wait til the wife is out for a few hours and when i get to buy some more fuses just in case. I also need a couble of ELCB

[EccentricDyslexic]

Hi Dave,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZDupTFTOWQ

&

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2zGfWg8dWk

if you want to retain the switch function just remove the disk without the goo on- its the disk that senses when to turn the kettle off when its boiling, which you dont want so just pull the disk off. no need to pull out any white pins unless they fall out.

Steve

[Deebee]

All installed. The first video was great.

I kept the swithes and both elements are now installed.

I just put 10 liters of water in and there are no leaks. The curve on the brrel means that 10 liters just covers the elemens o i guess this wil be ifne for a largr brew and will manage a rolling boil. I now need to try these with some heat on, but have to get some Earth leakage trips first. and change the plug on the leads to the ones that fit the sockets here. Then i have to mount the tap but am waiting for a hop stopper to arrive before i do this so that i don't mount the tap too high.

So far so good. thanks one and all for the help.

[Deebee]

20 liters in the boiler and left overnight.

Not a drop has leaked so i am pleased with this.

The next questions though are with regard to the hop stoper and also the height that the elements are placed.


1 firstly the hop stopper.

I spoke with Garth and he is making me a hop stopper like the ones he was selling earlier. I asked him as parts over here would cost more than parts and postage from the UK and I know that this will be made properly and there should be no problems with it.

The question is though how high should i mount the tap? I understand that as long as there is a pipe at a point lower than the bottom of the boiler i will get a good siphon effect, but i am wondering how high i should mount the tap. I know the hop stopper should be on the bottom of the boiler but until i get the parts from Garth i can't measure it up. Does anyone have any idea?


2 height of elements.

Due to the curvature on the sides og the barrel i have had to mount the elements about 8-9 cm from the bottom of the barrel. This means that 10 liters just covers the elements enough to be able to use them. Does this mean that i will not get a proper rolling boil, or should this be ok regardless.

The actual boiler looks as though it wil room 50 liters with ease, so it means i'll be able to brew larger legnths should the need arise.

Thanks as always for your help guys.

D