Buying kettle elements

[brewpete]

hi grunter yep 3 to get to boil and 2 for rolling boil no holes to drill and a pinch to keep clean

[Kev888]

Multiple elements can be a good solution to adjusting power if you need to - it is simple, reliable and we don't usually need especially subtle control. Just be sure the combinations used won't accidentally overload any power supplies available.

Use of insulation and/or partial lid can help tweak the vigour too, if required. For instance I can boil at 5kw with the kettle uncovered, or with insulation and a 9" diameter chimney also get reasonable rolling and turbulance with 2.5kw, though the evapouration rates are a little different. (Completely covering the kettle isn't advised, but provided all the steam and volatiles can still freely escape theres no problem in partially covering it).

[brewpete]

hi am running 2 off the 13amp socket on the cooker supply ring seems to have no issues

[Kev888]

Is that 2x 2000w elements (or 4kw total) from a single 13amp socket?

[brewpete]

yep but the supply is from 45 amp cooker socket

[jaroporter]

the cooker socket contacts (and splitter) will only be rated to 13A though. you're going to be drawing around 16A for a continued period. depending on the quality of outlet you might get away with it for a bit, or not..

i'm guessing the third element is already coming off the kitchen ring? if you can get one of those cooker ones to a different outlet on the ring it would be a lot safer

[brewpete]

ok just thought it would be safer than drawing from 3 13amp sockets on the kitchen circut as the cooker has a dedicated circut
will take heed though

[Kev888]

Yes, the cabling and the switch in the cooker unit may be rated to 45amps, but that is only relevant for the cooker; the 3-pin socket outlet will be rated for 13amps max - as will be the plug used in it. By loading it with 4kw (if that is a true figure) you will be drawing nearly 25% more than their maximum ratings, and for fairly extended periods of time, too. It will likely (and apparently does) physically cope short term with that kind of overload, at least you aren't doing it with 3kw elements, but it is not really a recipe for safe use or long life of the plug or socket.

Go for a maximum of 13amps per 13amp plug & socket; this would limit you to one of your (~8amp) elements per socket. So for example one in the cooker socket and one in a socket on the kitchen ring. You will only be able to safely use the third element if your kitchen ring circuit (or any other circuit within range) has a second 13a socket and enough spare current capacity to run a second element. It may have, two of your elements only total around 16amps or so, and the circuit may be around 30amps, but check and work out what else it is running at the time - especially thirsty appliances like kettles and dryers. If not or if in doubt then its up to you, but my advice would be to use only two elements and consider the third a spare; 4kw should be more than enough for most normal homebrew boilers.

[brewpete]

ok just using the 3rd one to get to a boil am also making sure nothing else using heat is on during the boil 90l of wort though only 4kw??

[jaroporter]

ok just thought it would be safer than drawing from 3 13amp sockets on the kitchen circut as the cooker has a dedicated circut
will take heed though

actually three on the kitchen ring would probably be better if using three different points on the circuit. each double socket outlet will be rated at 13A, so one element per piece of plastic is a good rule to go by - then if you use too many elements on one circuit the breaker will safely trip. two elements in one single or double outlet would unlikely cause any safety devices to trip, but still be a fire risk.

but yeah still keeping one on the cooker would be a good idea. i used to do that same with 3x 2,2kw cheapo kettle elements and the odd extension lead..

[brewpete]

ok one element per plastic it is then still safer than 47kg propane and a rubber hose though lol

[Fil]

hi am running 2 off the 13amp socket on the cooker supply ring seems to have no issues

Not even a hot plug??

just have a quick survey of whats on and running in the kitchen and determine the load each device draws, then check the amp rating of the relevant mcb in your consumer unit (32a or perhaps 16a) then a quick add up should tell you if your likely to trip the mcb with 3 x elements running off the same ring, tho if you keep one plugged into the cooker you only need to plug 2 x into the kitchen ring

[Kev888]

ok just using the 3rd one to get to a boil am also making sure nothing else using heat is on during the boil 90l of wort though only 4kw??

Yep the third element is useful for speed in reaching the boil, but with a little more patience you should be able to both reach and boil 90L properly with 4kw (if you needed to).

One of my past kettles boiled 100L (and that was post-boil volume) with only 1x 3kw element, because thats all the garage supply could run. That needed insulation and the lid partially on to achieve a decent roll, and was tedious in getting there - so I'm not recommending it. But it illustrates that you can certainly manage with less than 6kw if necessary.

[brewpete]

ok just getting to grips with this element buisness was using gas in outside but so wasteful ? and a pain to get n store so with the right insulation and setup indoors you can get any size pot to the boil

[Kev888]

Gas is excellent for kettles (as you say, in the right environment) and easily controllable, but quite a lot of the energy is lost to the air as well as heating the kettle base/sides - depending on shrouds and so on. Immersion elements have their own issues, but pretty much all their heat goes into the wort, so they need not be as powerful.

But it isn't critical and i think you have the power about right. 4kw should give a good rolling boil in 90L without being ridiculously vigorous. An extra 2kw is no bad thing to speed heating up, but if your electrics can't take it then it isn't a requirement.