Can anyone tell me how the hell RIMs works?!?!

[Belter]

I just finished my mini rims setup which works perfectly with water.


I test mashed today as an attempt to autotune it. I tried slow speed, extra slow speed and fast speed. All blocked in a couple seconds. I then tried a bigger pump. I dragged the wort through nicely for about 6 seconds the faded to a trickle. I realise increasing the size of the pump probably was only going to end in tears but I'm not really sure how Rims is every going to work. I know a lot of you guys are pretty good at Rimming, also at using a rims. Can someone explain or point me in the direction of my wrongs?

I have a slotted manifold that I cut with a junior hacksaw. The only thing I can think is that I used 8mm pipe as it's my tiny tiny tun for my mini brewery but at the end of the day the slots are the same width as a hacksaw blade I have used on previous manifolds. Perhaps the length of the cut isn't long enough in an 8mm pipe to stop it blocking.......


Cheers

Belter

[asd]

You need a full size false bottom - you need the area.

[Belter]

Damn. Is Rims impossible with a slotted false bottom?

[asd]

You need to be pulling very gently thru the whole of the grainbed, although having said that, I did do one once in a mango barrel using a 1" braid circle.

Don't despair! a cheap stainless colander may well work as a FB, or else a frying pan splash guard if stiffened up a bit.

How have you built your mini - RIMS? Did you go for a 15 litre pot as per the Quark thread? Cause it wouldn't cost too much to angle grind a piece of perf SS to fit.

[john luc]

This is a common problem as most people concentrate on the rims/herms design side of the build and then like you test it with flowing water only to come up against the mash thickness not playing fair. Larger pump will only suck harder on the mash and compact it into concrete. You need the largest surface area on your false bottom to drain the wort and also to control the pump needs control flow to stop the mash being drained too fast.

[Belter]

I hadn't considered a cheaper option of a collander although I imagine the hole will be a bit big?
Yeah I went for the four pot set. The mash tun is about 12L I think. I'll give Mr Lard a shout and find out the cost of a small section of perforated sheet

[asd]

Colander works ok-ish but you'll be much better off getting a MrLard jobbie. Make sure you stand the FB off the bottom enough that there is dead space, and make sure the weight of the grainbed doesn't bend it so it touches the bottom. That's unlikely with a small pot, though. Have you got a central or side drain?

[Belter]

It's cool I've made on for my big rig and she's a beauty.

If I'd have known this issue at the start I'd have done things differently. It's a side drain but that shouldn't be a problem.

I don't really want to spend any more money so I'll see what I can come up with.

[Belter]

I got round to finishing the False bottom made from the stainless I bought from metaloffcuts ebay.

I was pretty pleased with it.



It does't work. The pump slows down until it stops. Initially grain was getting down the gap where the silicone hose ends meet. I fixed that. Still stops.

The thing is… I can't see this being a huge amount different to my Big Rig. It's got to be easier than this surely...

[darkonnis]

Why not put the false bottom in the bottom. and then place the manifold in the upper third of the mash. Then pull through the manifold and fire the wort in from the underneath. That should stop it jamming.

I'd also add additional water to the mash, you might need an extra L per kg or grain? Remember, water circulating the heat exchange system is not there to support the grain bed.
Cooky

[Belter]

I'm very confused with your first suggestion
With regar to extra water it started jamming after is added about a third of the grains.

[darkonnis]

Pretty straight forward, though harder to explain in words.


By reversing the flow, you'll also be able to use the valve on the mash tun to regulate flow.

[Belter]

As far as I can see from your drawing you are sucking the mash water and grain up hill through the pump and back under the false bottom?


Reading it the other way you are doing what I'm already doing anyway?

[Fil]

how about sitting the grain in a mesh bag, and then to increase the surface area to drain thru sit off cuts of pipe or other suitable bits n bobs (nothing sharp tho) on the FB.. might just be enough.

otherwise it could be a case of draining the tun into a 2nd pan from which u then pump removing the suck from the tun exit.

you should win as long as you can establish a consistant tun drain rate and can match that with the pump speed to return the heated liquor.

[Belter]

I think I've spied the problem. I ordered the stainless in a rush before Christmas. IT has 3mm holes instead of 2mm. Is 3mm too big? I have a lot of grain under the false bottom