Electric brewery control panel build

[Stoat on a rope]

After 4 years of lusting over the control panel in Kals Electric Brewery ( www.theelectricbrewery.com ) I've finally got around to building my own.

There have been several of these builds on Jims and they've helped me so much I thought I'd document my build too. My build is largely the same as Kals, but with a few extra features and the wiring obviously being for UK voltage.

I'll stick up a bunch of photos but I'll also put up a break down of costs once I'm finished, and I've also drawn a wiring diagram that might be helpful to others. Anyone reading this that wants to build one themselves, the best source material is on Kals website, but check out the FAQ on wiring for 220-240 volts. The other control panel builds on here answered most of my remaining questions so look for those too. I'll also be happy to answer any questions

[Stoat on a rope]

My build differs from the original in the following ways...

Emergency stop

Emergency stop engaged light

Safe start interlock engaged light

Element select indicator lights (as well as original lights to show when SSRs are firing

Alarm light and buzzer combined in one device

Auber timer (apparently new, designed specifically for brewing)

No alarm off switch for timer, instead using momentary push button wired to timer mute

Momentary buttons for timer start and reset (timer start, mute and reset are also present as buttons on the timer, so these three momentary switches aren't strictly necessary, but they're much easier to use)

I wanted easily removable relays but the rail mounted socket type doesn't come in 30amp double pole, so my neutrals don't pass back through the relays.

My HLT and kettle each have two 2.4kw elements
I have 4 relays-
One for power into the box controlled by the safe start interlock/key switch set up
One for the HLT- energised by 3 way selector switch selecting HLT, power will pass through this relay on its way to the PID controlled SSR, then on to both HLT elements
Two for the Kettle- both energised by 3 way selector switch selecting Kettle, like the HLT but this time one will supply power to the PID controlled SSR, then element ONE element, the other relay supplies the second element directly, making one element in the Kettle permanently on when the kettle is selected. The PID for the kettle will be set to just below 100DEGC so both elements will be on up to boil, then once boil is reached one will turn off.

My third PID will show the temperature for cooled wort leaving my plate chiller, rather than the Mash Tun like in the original.

[Stoat on a rope]

Wiring diagram

The sub circuits bottom left are the transformers and adjustable power supplies for the volt and amp meters.

Ignore the values/symbols for the temp probes, the app I used had some limitations

For simplicity I didn't include the neutral bus

[bobsbeer]

Looks great.

[Fil]

Wow thats a great build.. thanks for sharing..

[Haydnexport]

wow , i want one !

[Hogarth]

Very nice. Life is not complete without a control panel.

Boring question: how did you cut the square holes?

[Stoat on a rope]

Cheers!

Square holes were with a Dremel, went through quite a few cutting disks though! I've not done the holes in the base yet they will be round but larger than my TCT hole saws, might try and cut those with the Dremel too but could be tricky... I've also seen recommended using a metal saw bit in a jigsaw, maybe I'll give that a go.

[Stoat on a rope]

I've been in need of a new control box for quite some time, the wiring in my original one wasn't particularly safe, it would get quite warm to say the least...

[Stoat on a rope]

Here's an up to date picture of the interior



I'm still waiting on...

For the front panel- emergency stop, two momentary switches, 3 way selector switch, key start switch

Still to order...

Heat sink
1 SSR
Sockets for elements, pumps and power in socket

I'm currently building the temp probe cables



Two RTD PT100's for the kettle and plate chiller, and I already had a k-type thermocouple for the HLT so all I've done there is stuck the Neutrik plug on the end of it


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[Hogarth]

Square holes were with a Dremel, went through quite a few cutting disks though! I've not done the holes in the base yet they will be round but larger than my TCT hole saws, might try and cut those with the Dremel too but could be tricky... I've also seen recommended using a metal saw bit in a jigsaw, maybe I'll give that a go.

Ah, thanks. Last year I made a control panel out of brass, and used a jigsaw for the rectangular holes. Complete PITA -- I made such a pig's ear of it. Next time I'm going to try mounting the jigsaw upside down and doing it table-saw wise. But maybe I'll try a dremel first.

[Stoat on a rope]

I'd say go for it, the dremel certainly did the job well enough


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[steambrew]

Very good job the wiring loom clips etc are done to a very high standard looking forward to seeing the photo and write up of the finished article

[Stoat on a rope]

Thanks steambrew! I considered using trunking but I didn't have enough space, and I quite like being able to see the wires. I've used a rough colour system for the wiring- white for safe start interlock, orange for pump power and LEDs, green for PID power, yellow for signals, blue for neutral, red for large amp power, black for large amp neutral (with a few black for low amp functions).

Hopefully won't be long before I complete it, but I'm currently unemployed and looking for work so no spending until I get a job!


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[Stoat on a rope]

A little more progression, door is now complete, power connectors arrived (and yet another TCT hole saw!)

All I need now is, heat sink, 1 SSR, name tags








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