Mash tun porn
Re: Mash tun porn
Deck drain and elbow comes fitted. Length of pipe came fitted to the tap. All I had to do was screw the pipe into the elbow and it was good to go. Basically no assembly
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Re: Mash tun porn
Sounds like my kind of pan!!
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Re: Mash tun porn
Bunglebrewsbeer wrote:
Looking at that mash tun I envisage it being fiddly getting that elbow screwed on at the bottom. Might just be me though.
I used a 'multi purpose plumbing' tool like this one :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DICKIE-DYER-M ... SwEK9UGa4W
- Bunglebrewsbeer
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Re: Mash tun porn
I think I fail as a male. What the hell is that?
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- Lost in an Alcoholic Haze
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Re: Mash tun porn
have you used tank connectors bungle with the 2 'teeth' on the outside , well the deck fitting probably has the them just on the inside and you use a special grooved tool to match the teeth like the one in the link.
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Re: Mash tun porn
Used one? I've never heard of one till now. Haha
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Re: Mash tun porn
lol , it might be worth you finding a 'mens shed' near you , loads of guys making stuff and using tools
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Re: Mash tun porn
Not heard of those either.
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Re: Mash tun porn
It is a hand tool for tightening the deck drain used by the Brewbuilder kits in their Bergland thermopot to mash tun conversions (and also included in their center drain conversion kits).Bunglebrewsbeer wrote:I think I fail as a male. What the hell is that?
Last edited by brew like a dog on Sat Dec 10, 2016 5:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Mash tun porn
mens sheds and hackspaces are two sorts of communal tool n skill sharing cooperatives, both well worth looking into if your interested in fabricating anything beyond your current skill and tool level google em to find out whats in your area, generally you join up for a small fee and pay a small monthly sub to gain access to facilities and training needed for specialist tools. its just a shame that our local option is lacking the one bloody tool i want access to
ist update for months n months..
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Maturing: Challenger smash, and a kit lager
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Coming Soon Lots planned for the near future nowt for the immediate
Fermnting: not a lot..
Conditioning: nowt
Maturing: Challenger smash, and a kit lager
Drinking: dry one minikeg left in the store
Coming Soon Lots planned for the near future nowt for the immediate
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Re: Mash tun porn
Bunglebrewsbeer wrote:Not heard of those either.
Bungle,Bunglebrewsbeer wrote:Used one? I've never heard of one till now. Haha
Haven`t you got a `Man Drawer` in the Kitchen?
All the tools you need are in there!
If not, MrsBungle knows what you want for Christmas!
WA
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Re: Mash tun porn
Haha. I've a draw with limited tools. An extensive collection of takeaway menus though. I shall never starve.
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Re: Mash tun porn
Has anyone converted one of these to a brew kettle. I was thinking of buying one with the bottom drain conversion as shown in the pics, then cutting a 40mm hole in the bottom to fit a 3KW burco type element, then false bottom sits over the element.
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Re: Mash tun porn
They consist of two thin stainless steel skins with about 40mm of 'foam' insulation in the middle. I wouldnt like to say how the foam would be at boil temperature over a duration of time.CestrIan wrote:Has anyone converted one of these to a brew kettle. I was thinking of buying one with the bottom drain conversion as shown in the pics, then cutting a 40mm hole in the bottom to fit a 3KW burco type element, then false bottom sits over the element.
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Re: Mash tun porn
yes a few folk have converted them this way, and if doing so your better off buying the thermopot without a drain fitted and do that while you banging in the elements. last time i bought a 80l thermopot it was circa £100 bought direct from the ebay.fr seller. email for delivered prices and paypal invoice on acceptance delivery takes 2-3 days after payments have cleared.. off ebay prices are cheaper - no ebay fees and price reflects this.
catering-portal.bergland@msg.afterbuy.de
the insulation speeds up the boil start and cuts down on the power needed to maintain a boil. The down side is if you plan in using an IC to chill the brew the insulation will then work against you, and flame out hop additions may impart more bittering?? if you use a lot of late and flame out hops i would read up on how the extra heat retention may effect that..
but if you no-chill or use an external cfc or plate chiller and dont load your brews with late and flame out hops then its a highly viable option imho..
you will probably need to fit feet or a skirt to lift it all up as you have about 25-30mm between the base rim and the bottom of the inner skin. which is a tight squeeze for the drain system, let alone the electrics for elements. Only consider qmax punches for the element holes too, i cant recall who now but one chap had a hell of a time trying to make a seal with his elements after using a toothed hole saw which left the bottom skin in a chewed up mess.. the skins are sub mm thick!! supported by the foam sandwiched between em..
good luck with the project and post pics please we like pics..
@brew like a dog, a valid concern regarding the insulation but it holds up fine
pull the whole base skin off and plan on reinsulating the base and replacing the base with ply or anything suitable, No one will ever see under the base
while yuo will find utubes of folk doing similar with neat holes cut in the outer base skin to provide access what they dont highlight is the metal edges of such holes can be razor sharp, and a NIGHTMARE if your pushing your fingers inside to tighten bits etc..
catering-portal.bergland@msg.afterbuy.de
the insulation speeds up the boil start and cuts down on the power needed to maintain a boil. The down side is if you plan in using an IC to chill the brew the insulation will then work against you, and flame out hop additions may impart more bittering?? if you use a lot of late and flame out hops i would read up on how the extra heat retention may effect that..
but if you no-chill or use an external cfc or plate chiller and dont load your brews with late and flame out hops then its a highly viable option imho..
you will probably need to fit feet or a skirt to lift it all up as you have about 25-30mm between the base rim and the bottom of the inner skin. which is a tight squeeze for the drain system, let alone the electrics for elements. Only consider qmax punches for the element holes too, i cant recall who now but one chap had a hell of a time trying to make a seal with his elements after using a toothed hole saw which left the bottom skin in a chewed up mess.. the skins are sub mm thick!! supported by the foam sandwiched between em..
good luck with the project and post pics please we like pics..
@brew like a dog, a valid concern regarding the insulation but it holds up fine
pull the whole base skin off and plan on reinsulating the base and replacing the base with ply or anything suitable, No one will ever see under the base
while yuo will find utubes of folk doing similar with neat holes cut in the outer base skin to provide access what they dont highlight is the metal edges of such holes can be razor sharp, and a NIGHTMARE if your pushing your fingers inside to tighten bits etc..
ist update for months n months..
Fermnting: not a lot..
Conditioning: nowt
Maturing: Challenger smash, and a kit lager
Drinking: dry one minikeg left in the store
Coming Soon Lots planned for the near future nowt for the immediate
Fermnting: not a lot..
Conditioning: nowt
Maturing: Challenger smash, and a kit lager
Drinking: dry one minikeg left in the store
Coming Soon Lots planned for the near future nowt for the immediate