Ball Valves for Recirculation
Ball Valves for Recirculation
I've seen lots of pots featuring taps at the top, presumably for recirculation. Like this:
What's the point of the ball valve...? Shirley you have a ball valve on the pump output, so you don't need one on the side of the pot too? Can you just get away with a connector (like a male Camlock), or am I missing something...?
Thanks,
Bob.
What's the point of the ball valve...? Shirley you have a ball valve on the pump output, so you don't need one on the side of the pot too? Can you just get away with a connector (like a male Camlock), or am I missing something...?
Thanks,
Bob.
I like beer --- Currently rebuilding the brewery, this time with stainless...
Re: Ball Valves for Recirculation
When you're reducing the flow of a magnetic pump it's better to do it on the output rather than the input. And don't call me Shirley.
Re: Ball Valves for Recirculation
I understand that, but Shirley you have the ball valve attached to the pump, not the pot...? Just seems like you could save some £££ on ball valves...Hogarth wrote:When you're reducing the flow of a magnetic pump it's better to do it on the output rather than the input. And don't call me Shirley.
Cheers,
Bob.
I like beer --- Currently rebuilding the brewery, this time with stainless...
Re: Ball Valves for Recirculation
I guess if you got a pot like the one in the picture you wouldn't need one on the pump. I have a similar setup but have the valve on the pump and a camlock on the return port on the pot.
- barneey
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Re: Ball Valves for Recirculation
I have a 3 way ballvalve on mine.
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Re: Ball Valves for Recirculation
That's what I was leaning towards doing, saves on three ball valves. Just wondered if I was missing something...bobsbeer wrote:I guess if you got a pot like the one in the picture you wouldn't need one on the pump. I have a similar setup but have the valve on the pump and a camlock on the return port on the pot.
Cheers,
Bob.
I like beer --- Currently rebuilding the brewery, this time with stainless...
Re: Ball Valves for Recirculation
Ah, sorry. Misread your post, being blonde.k1100t wrote:I understand that, but Shirley you have the ball valve attached to the pump, not the pot...? Just seems like you could save some £££ on ball valves...Hogarth wrote:When you're reducing the flow of a magnetic pump it's better to do it on the output rather than the input. And don't call me Shirley.
Cheers,
Bob.
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Re: Ball Valves for Recirculation
I'd imagine you have a valve on the pot because if you don't and you fill the pot right up the brim you end up with liquid dribbling out the barb/hole that's on the pot instead.
Also they aren't just for recirc - it's an entry that means you can leave the lid on the pot and avoid loose hoses waving around.
Also they aren't just for recirc - it's an entry that means you can leave the lid on the pot and avoid loose hoses waving around.
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Re: Ball Valves for Recirculation
I imagine that a dust cap (Cam & Groove Part DC) would solve that?Jocky wrote:I'd imagine you have a valve on the pot because if you don't and you fill the pot right up the brim you end up with liquid dribbling out the barb/hole that's on the pot instead.
I'm not suggesting getting rid of some means of input, just wondering if I can get away without a tap.Jocky wrote:Also they aren't just for recirc - it's an entry that means you can leave the lid on the pot and avoid loose hoses waving around.
Cheers,
Bob.
I like beer --- Currently rebuilding the brewery, this time with stainless...
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Re: Ball Valves for Recirculation
I would think the dust cap will seal - you'll just want to check it comes with a gasket as per the regular type C connectors, and isn't in fact just a dust cap.
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- barneey
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Re: Ball Valves for Recirculation
If you have say a HLT, you want to be able to recirculate, not only for temperature control but for mixing of any water treatment (makes it a lot easier if a recirc is used). Most magnetically coupled pumps are better suited to have the throttle on the output side rather than the inlet side, this can be achieved with a ballvalve as noted on your picture) OR say a mini ballvalve https://www.brewbuilder.co.uk/mini-ball ... -male.html
Now what happens, when you want to say pump the liquor into the MT, find a cloth to man handle that QD/ C&G etc and connect the hose to another port (or wherever). Say if you bought a https://www.brewbuilder.co.uk/3-way-bal ... -port.html = enables your recirc to be permanently set up + the hose to MT or whatever. It also enables the flow to the MT or whatever to be controlled, this might be useful if your underlet, have a floating mash bed, OR if you want to control a SPARGE arm.
Now what happens, when you want to say pump the liquor into the MT, find a cloth to man handle that QD/ C&G etc and connect the hose to another port (or wherever). Say if you bought a https://www.brewbuilder.co.uk/3-way-bal ... -port.html = enables your recirc to be permanently set up + the hose to MT or whatever. It also enables the flow to the MT or whatever to be controlled, this might be useful if your underlet, have a floating mash bed, OR if you want to control a SPARGE arm.
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Hops, cider pips & hello.
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Name the Movie + song :)
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Re: Ball Valves for Recirculation
Also, sometimes a reason for a tap at the inlet is if there is a dip-tube/hose on the inside of the pot (e.g to direct a whirlpool) - which can back-syphon in certain situations if it isn't closed off.
Additionally not all systems economise on pumps; for convenience or time-efficiency or other reasons, they may have two or three or more, each dedicated to a given task - in that case it doesn't matter whether the valve is at the pump or (perhaps more conveniently placed) at the tank.
Or the valve may be left set at a given flow/restriction appropriate for the tank it serves, so the pump may be freely swapped to other tasks without the need to alter and reset a single pump valve each time.
None of these things may be relevant or important to you. This, in part, is one joy of DIY - if budget/time/skill etc permit, you can do whatever suits your own personal preferences, or even just play with and test your own ideas of what may work best for you.
Additionally not all systems economise on pumps; for convenience or time-efficiency or other reasons, they may have two or three or more, each dedicated to a given task - in that case it doesn't matter whether the valve is at the pump or (perhaps more conveniently placed) at the tank.
Or the valve may be left set at a given flow/restriction appropriate for the tank it serves, so the pump may be freely swapped to other tasks without the need to alter and reset a single pump valve each time.
None of these things may be relevant or important to you. This, in part, is one joy of DIY - if budget/time/skill etc permit, you can do whatever suits your own personal preferences, or even just play with and test your own ideas of what may work best for you.
Kev
Re: Ball Valves for Recirculation
Thanks for the explanations barneey and Kev888; some food for thought.
Thanks,
Bob.
Thanks,
Bob.
I like beer --- Currently rebuilding the brewery, this time with stainless...