Is my Burco bust?

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JamesH

Is my Burco bust?

Post by JamesH » Fri Oct 13, 2017 1:42 pm

Hi,

I am planning on having a brew this weekend but can't get my boiler to boil. I thought I would ask for help on here to see if I can mend it.

I have attached a couple of photos to help me describe the issue.

When the boiler is plugged in and the dial is on 'off', there is a green light on the boiler (see 'Off.jpg'). But, when I turn the dial onto any number to start the heating, the green light turns off but the red light does not switch on (see 'On.jpg') as it usually does. This is not just an issue with the light. I have left the boiler on its highest setting for over an hour with a small amount of water in there and the water does not heat at all.

I have tried to push the reset button but it does not help at all.

Any ideas on here how I might be able to get it working again?

Thanks,

James.
Attachments
On.jpg
Off.jpg

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Kev888
So far gone I'm on the way back again!
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Re: Is my Burco bust?

Post by Kev888 » Fri Oct 13, 2017 9:36 pm

My burco was older, lacking the lights, so not entirely sure what they signify. However my thoughts are that it is either going to be the element that has gone, or (more likely) the simmerstat/controller or some temperature sensor.

If it is the element, there is little you can do aside from buying a replacement part. But if it is the controller etc then you could bypass them, wiring the element direct to the supply cable - IF you feel competent to do so safely. This would also help you narrow down where the fault lies.
Kev

Fil
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Re: Is my Burco bust?

Post by Fil » Sat Oct 14, 2017 1:10 am

a basic test for the element is to use a multi meter with a continuity test or set to test resistance, a blown element will probably fail a continuity test and not register resistance.

If confident with electicity testing you could atempt to check if current is getting to the element a spare pair of hands to switch on and off the power while you have the empty boiler upturned to test would be useful as running dry is highly likely to trip any protection fitted.


generally more modern urns/boilers rae fitted with a NC thermal switch and a thermal fuse as protection, the switch if tripped will reset after the pot has cooled the fuse is a one shot item and if tripped is blown and will need replacement or bypassing.

If the element is ok you can bodge a boiler by simply wiring Live to one element terminal and neutral to the other and ensuring eart is attached to the boiler body.
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