When does it make sense to make a starter

[inthedark]

I'm trying to get my head around this subject, not least because I'm looking at starting my fourth kit in a week or 2.

First kit was a complete disaster - so many things went wrong, many lessons learned. Went down the sink.

Second one I'm drinking at the moment. It has a bit of a tang to it which I'm not happy with (it's a John Bull Masterclass IPA - used Safale04, just rehydrated)

Third (Woodfordes Great Eastern) is about ready for kegging - stuck firmly at 1012, even though I was expecting a little more - used a Gervin for that one (jumping around a bit I know, but I was hoping for a lower FG out of that one)

My latest one is a Nelson's Revenge. I've been reading a bit on pitching rates and most would suggest that a 11g sachet was needed, but the one in the kit is only 6g.

I'm a bit confused. If the 11g is correct, why would the manufacturer include only 6g? Apparently these beers win awards (or at least blind tests) - do they only use the stuff in the box to make award winning beers?

So, the only thing I can think might be sensible is to make a starter. I can't find anything definitive to say whether that's right for these circumstances though.

Getting to the point - under what circumstances should I use a starter, when is it OK to just rehydrate and are there times when just chucking it in according to the instructions is a prudent thing to do given that there's 40 pints at stake?

Cheers!

[Vossy1]

Hi ITD,

Simply it's up to you

I've got a Nelsons Revenge in primary at the mo, I did rehydrate the yeast prior to adding, but when I first started makiing kits I didn't.

Rehydrating simply ensures the yeast gets off to a faster start than if it were added dry.

I did 2 kits the other day and a AG brew. I rehydrated some but not others (I was too lazy).

For a beginner it's probably safer and easier to add the yeast dry, as there's nothing to sanitise.

When rehydrating you have to use sanitised cup, spoon, boiled cool water and at all stages your increasing the risk of adding infection

I'm a bit confused. If the 11g is correct, why would the manufacturer include only 6g?

Probably to cut costs I've never had a problem with kit yeast though, to be fair

[steve_flack]

The yeast in the Woodfordes kits is NOT the yeast the brewery uses. The dried yeast is either Safale or Muntons whereas I'm pretty sure Woodfordes uses Charles Wells' yeast which isn't available dried (although you can get it from one of the liquid yeast companies IIRC)

[Jim]

First thing, don't worry about a final gravity of 1.012 - that's absolutely fine.

There's not really any need to make up a starter with dried yeast sachets, although it will help to get fermentation under way more quickly (thus reducing the chance of infections getting a hold).

The only difference between 6g and 11g packs will be the lag time before fermentation starts, and isn't likely to be a problem if the fermenter has a tight-fitting lid.

High fermentation temperatures (<24C) can cause off flavours. You would probably be better off trying to keep the temperature of fermentation constant at about 19 or 20C - get a max-min digital thermometer and stick it to your fermenter so you can see what's happening.

[inthedark]

I've got a Nelsons Revenge in primary at the mo

Did you use the yeast in the kit, or some other?

[Vossy1]

Apparently these beers win awards (or at least blind tests) - do they only use the stuff in the box to make award winning beers?

The kit is based on the original grist formulation and breweries hops so should compare favourably with the breweries beer...so it says on the packet.

I really enjoyed this kit, so much so, that even with me now making AG brews I still buy this kit

Did you use the yeast in the kit, or some other?

Yep I used the kits yeast

[inthedark]

Yep I used the kits yeast

Good enough for me - thanks

[Vossy1]

My Nelsons Revenge tonight, it was started on Friday

The kit yeast looks pretty happy to me