Jim's Beer Kit

Only in winter when its cold enough to not have to chill them (2). I brew in mid December and they'll it'll last into March (if I'm lucky) - one top take-off, one bottom. Both valves replaced, S30 fittings. Just don't overtighten the lids and they're easy to clean - they get stored in the loft for t...

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ZjYMeAYIZIk

Here's a slight variation - you can always leave out the chocolate.

Pat

I bought my 4 from China via eBay and have stripped them all down if only to check I could (chemical engineer - force of habit!) - 2 of each flavour, all 316ss, so can take a spanner and some leverage! No issues with any and at <£10 each delivered very happy camper! The worst part of the valve for g...

Used MO3 for a very successful Newky clone (extract, partial mash) and more recently Liberty Bell M36 for Hobgoblin all grain. Fermented the latter at 19.5, off quickly and done in 4 days (1008). Really like them and will be using their Wit yeast for my first wheat beer.

Pat

ok, took a reading and down from 1048 to 1010. Was looking for 1008, but then again as its still fermenting, who knows!!??

Pat

ok, so fermenting for a long time isn't unusual. I normally leave it for 14 days, and by then it's not just done, but really done. But not this one. Brewed up on Sunday, still bubbling every minute or so on the following Wednesday....... Coopers APA + dme + loads of hops + Mangrove Jacks Liberty Bel...

Thanks - you've confirmed what I thought - that a cheap temp readout really doesn't exist. So the alternative is, as recommended, another Inkbird calibrated at 66 degC but just used as a readout rather than controller.

Cheers all

Pat

Cheers all - right in line with what I suspected - that the HLT is the poor relation in the world of shiny = sexy! I think the mop out with towels I'll be my preferred method until I can put a bottom drain on it.

Regards, Pat

Looking for a nice accurate NTC probe for use with a simple digital readout. Needs to be 10k (Inkbird style). I've tried a couple of different Chinese ones and they were useless - non-linear and way off (+/- 5-8 deg C). Anyone care to recommend a supplier fleabay or otherwise that they would trust? ...

Recently (5 brews) started using a 3v set-up, so now have some reasonable washing up to do at the end of a brew day. One aspect never mentioned (should I know something?) is what folk do with their HLT? Plenty of pictures of set-ups show the HLT at some ungodly high point in the system (curse you up...

Main obstacle I have is that I can't fit it in the brew fridge and I cannot be bothered to make a double-hole bung for the blow off jar! In reality, when its done its' done. I could see some merit for commercial brewers who want to both replicate brews at the same time as maximising equipment usage,...

Clearing out now I've gone all grain and I've a Coopers Aussie Pale Ale to get rid of, so to speak. Rather than just do a recipe from the Coopers site (fruit salad ale sounds good for summer), I wondered what would happened if I just used the tin contents brewed short to 10-12 litres with no added D...

First off, as OP, I'd like to thank everyone for their contributions - great discussion. Following on from the last few comments regarding late additions for flavour vs IBU etc , have a read of the following! https://www.morebeer.com/category/secret-big-hop-aroma-flavor.html "Several homebrewers hav...

Hi Jambo - that's the basis for my question. Economics. Why would a brewery use expensive hops like Citra for bittering unless they had to (single hop beers etc) when they can choose based on %AA/£. Unless there are "rules" for certain hops eg those that can retain flavour over a 60 minute boil, the...

if you over-boil (ie lose too much in the boil and end up over target OG), what are the effects of liquoring back by adding sterilised water to get to correct SG? I understand that the in-boil concentrations have been progressively wrong, but the final ratios will be correct (colour, IBU etc). At th...