Jim's Beer Kit

Ta. I don't have concerns with it getting to FG, just more the yeast in suspension. It'll condition adequately - force carbonated at 20psi and given a good shake. I don't want it fizzy, just a slight condition.

I brewed a beer last weekend for Christmas . . . not exactly a typical style, but one that suits the drinkers; a 4.5% pale ale with 200g of hops in it (Citra and Chinook). Lovely. Anyway, my plan is to drop it into a corny on Sunday, 20psi, should be good for Christmas Eve. I'm not bothered about pe...

Be careful not to "suck" the contents of the air lock back into the fermenter when you crash cool, particularly if you've used a blow off tube into a larger bottle/airlock, a pint of starsan mightened be the best addition to your brew Sent from my VOG-L09 using Tapatalk Good point - I have a bubble...

Cheers for the reply. I'll probably give it a week and see how it goes - not sure I've got much control over temperature really though, it'll be whatever the thermostat sends it to!

There should always be a hiss when opening the bottle, even if only lightly conditioned; the pressure needs to be above atmospheric pressure to keep the gas dissolved in the beer. If there's no hiss, it's one of two things; the bottles aren't sealing or there's insufficient priming sugars and/or yea...

Morning all, Dragged my brewery out over the weekend for the first time in 2 years - got a nice red ale with centennial hops bubbling away now. I've now got the luxury of a spare 'fridge and given I'm using a famously "muddy" yeast (US-05), I'm thinking about attempting to crash cool the FV once it'...

A thought on the wooden casks though; how easy are they to sanitise? With plastic/metal casks, the surface is smooth and easy to sanitise, but unless they're lined (which would defeat the objective), how easy is it to sanitise a wooden cask using normal 'at home' sanitation methods?

I decide that I ought to finally brew a bitter . . . for the first time ever! It's a style that I used to overlook somewhat, drawn in by hop-monsters and rich stouts, but I've rediscovered this classic beer style and thought it's about time I brewed one. I've roughly modelled this on Harveys Sussex ...

In a few months time, I need to be putting on a decent quantity of beer (36 pints) on draught . . . but the catch is, it will need to be dispensed only hours after it has travelled 2 hours in a car! I don't want to go down the route of bottles (too much faff) and would preferably avoid beer boxes (n...

Interesting idea, got loads of that stuff. Cheers!

I've created and now successfully tested my wooden 3 tier brewery stand. However I need to treat the plywood against the inevitable water splashes when brewing. Whatever the treatment is, it'll need to deal with 100 degree temperatures where the boiler sits on it, without it going sticky! I have vis...

Yeah quite! And given that import taxes apparently apply to the total value including the shipping then that makes it much less appealing.

First beer brewed for around 5 years so I thought that following my thread about "getting back in the saddle" it seemed appropriate to name the beer as such! This was also the first use of my newly built 3 tier brewing stand, although I only took a photo of it in the sparge configuration. I had boug...

Today's brew went well; didn't test the mash pH but I got 84% mash efficiency so I'm pretty pleased with that (used to get 83% reliably so this is actually an improvement). Should get a good idea in a week but I'm pretty confident.

Many thanks again for the advice

I just did a try on the brewshop.co.nz website and 4 packs of 100g pellets were a good price . . . but a 55NZD shipping cost wasn't! It would work out at about £13 per pack of hops delivered at that rate. Did anyone else find this or has something changed?