Jim's Beer Kit

Anyone know if this is the same orange peel? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F123834907119 Yes, i believe so. We’re selling this batch now and it’s great! The nielsen massey extract tastes great dosed at 0.4ml per litre. It cuts through enough but i...

It might be worth you getting your tap water tested by Wallybrew on here. He'll give you a full analysis. Then, using Graham Wheeler's water treatment calculator , you can adjust your alkalinity, sulphate and chloride ratios etc, etc. It can seem a bit daunting at first--or at least it was for me! B...

IPA wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 18, 2019 6:53 pm

Try to think out of "the American box" and treat your tap water !

Also an excellent plan!

Should have asked; why do want RO water? How will you use it in your brewing?

Guy

Before buying a RO machine you may want to consider buying RO water from a local aquarium shop, if you have one. My local shop charges 14p/litre. £7 for 50 litres, in other words. You avoid having to do any plumbing or install anything. Plus you don't waste any water. Looks like a good RO system wil...

dazer23866 wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 16, 2019 2:21 pm

it ends up at 39 IBUs

Perfect! Should be a good beer.

Guy

Should be good! According to Hopslist both the Centennial and the Ahtanum are similar to Cascade. So you should end up with a nice spicy, citrusy beer. It'll only have about 30 IBUs (you haven't listed the IBUs from the Cascade, but it'll probably be similar to the Ahtanum). Assuming you're making t...

Thanks. When I first got the meter it calibrated easily without having to go back and forth between the buffers. I've got another probe in the drawer. A fairly cheap one from ebay. Sounds like it might be worth trying it out.

Guy

About 18 months ago I bought a Voltcraft PH-100ATC Ph meter. A couple of days ago was brewday. During the first 15 minutes of the mash I calibrated (or tried to) the pH meter using pH 4 and pH 7 buffers. New ones, by the way. The pH 7 point was wandering all over the place every time the probe was p...

Babydavid3 wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 10, 2019 8:38 pm

So I’ve poured another beer and it’s defiantly carbonated. Is it possible that my beer line is too long? I’m using 3/16 line.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How long is your line?

Guy

This 'misreading' of the Tilt always happened when I used it. The Tilt was nowhere near the cooling coil in the Brewtech FV. Like you, Cobnut, I found it always drifted to the edge of the FV away from the coil. It always had a thick layer of crud (yeast!) on top of it by the end of the fermentation....

When I've used the peel from MM I've chucked it into the boil a few minutes before the end, then left it to steep at <80°C with the flame out hops for 25 minutes or so. The peel has then stayed in the boiler with the spent hops after running the clear wort off. Haven't tried using the peel in the FV...

This is a lovely brain teaser! You clearly sanitise your final vessels well, and the beer doesn't stay in them long enough to pick up any taint from autolysed yeast. Which wouldn't give a phenolic taste anyway. More a really nasty bitter Marmite taste. Cloves and TCP towards the end of the two weeks...

Jocky wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 01, 2019 3:52 pm

Otherwise normally I'd say phenols at the end of the keg would be caused by a low level wild yeast infection.

As Jocky says, hence the question about cleaning and sanitising.

Guy

From your post it seems as though this happens every time, every brew. Yes? So, a few initial questions if I may. How long is your beer in the King keg or Corny before you finish it? How do you clean and sanitise your final vessels? Do you treat your brewing water, and how? How do you sparge, and do...

What's an 'abbreviated comma', please? Google can't help me here.

Guy