Jim's Beer Kit

I've been fiddling with 3/16 line for a lager at 12 psi recently having used 3/8 line and a party tap (which are a useless combo unless you drop keg pressure to almost nothing). I read as a guide use 3 psi per ft pressure loss on 3/16 line. At 7 psi in the keg 2-3 ft sounds about right to me. Ere on...

Use a 2 ml sample of water and double the resulting alkalinity reading. It's accurate enough if you take care and it halves the amount of acid titrant you need. I have the same problem in the Reading area with a large alkalinity reading. Be sure to check again after adjusting you water and then use ...

Just had this recently. Some kind of mild infection. Not sure what. When you have a bad batch it screws up the schedule and you run out of beer. Like you say, shop beer is generally not great and soon adds up. I comiserate with you.

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You dont mention mash temp or whether you hydrated the yeast before pitching. This yeast struggles to attenuate at "normal" mash temps and tends to leave the longer chain sugars like dextrins. This can leave a high fg but not always sweet tasting. It can however, in my experience, chug on a bit. At ...

Beware. Windsor starts fast and is very vigourous initially. It will generally appear to stop suddenly, usually with a moderately high sg depending on fermentables in your wort. It will then dally around, luring you into thinking it has finished. It will then start up again after 2 or 3 weeks and co...

with screw cap bottles you can easily slip in a 2nd priming dose to increase the condition, just dump it in quick and be prepared for a mini volcano (think small scale cola mintoes) so over a tray.. probably wont happen and if it does its not gonna be on the same scale it will just splurge foam out...

If I read this correctly you are using a chiller for the first time. If so this looks like cold break material and if you are using whole hops they will filter it when the wort is run off into the FV. If a bit finds its way into the FV don't worry it will settle out. Next time when you chill the wo...

I often use dry ale yeast for cider and this gets to 1.0 gravity easily because the short chain sugars in fruit and well, sugar, are easy to munch. It's important to pitch healthy yeast and for fruit based brews, yeast nutrient that would otherwise come from a beer wort. Sent from my SM-G920F using ...

I second MTW on the low attenuation yeast thing. I've nearly always found a high finishing gravity with low attenuating yeasts equals trouble down the line in a bottle...and not predictably either.

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I do agree, But I felt that 1.016 final gravity from 1.043 and 1.045 was high when 1.012 or 1.013 would have been nice. Especially as it didn't really reach spec attenuation at just under 65%. Also, I seem to find I can finish at low gravity say 1.010 and high gravity 1.016 say for modest og, but st...

I would say if they're not lumpy from moisture absorption then no.

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Finding the sweet spot seems to be the key. From my limited experience on two batches, I would mash lower than normal, but the difference between fermenting maltotriose and not fermenting it seems to be quite a few gravity points I reckon.

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Interested on what it does next. Just done two brews with this yeast. A 1.045 gravity bitter mashed at 67 deg c and a 1043 gravity mild mashed at 66 Dec c on some slurry made into a starter from the bitter. Both stopped dead at 1.016 (less than 65% att) and never moved. Nice flavour but a touch swee...

I've had good results on English style bitters with this yeast, attenuating quite highly. However it does tend to chug on with time. Struggling to find the mash temp sweet spot with higher gravity beers. It can attenuate quite highly given the right conditions and can still leave beer thin even many...

Not sure you'd need two packets on a 10 l batch even at that gravity, but I'd always recommend rehydration. Sprinkling works people argue and then something like this happens and you're left wondering if you gave it the best opportunity to start with.

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