Jim's Beer Kit

I'm using an Inkbird strapped to the side of the (plastic) fermenter (under a chunk of foam sponge) & a Tilt inside it. With the Inkbird set to 18C the Tilt is reporting within +/- 1/2C of that. There's a bit of rounding going on (the Tilt works to the nearest 1F & then converts to C iirc) but that...

Great - is that the lids with ball lock bulkhead post? Any chance you could share a link - i've looked through this section without success. I know sometimes on Malt Miller you have to be quite specific in your searches. Great supplier mind. Thank you. Here is the link. https://www.themaltmiller.co...

The MaltMiller stocks them.

This thread has made me ask why is it called Dry Hopping. Surely Cold or Ambient hopping would be more correct.

Did you mix the DME with some of the wort before adding it ?

"to stop anything being drawn up from the bottom of the keg is fit a float take off." You can also give your keg a swirl and then let the beer settle with the keg at an angle with the "beer post" of the keg uppermost. That way any solids will settle in the opposite side of the keg and give you clea...

It certainly does not look very clear. My advice to stop anything being drawn up from the bottom of the keg is fit a float take off. You will have bright beer from the first to the last glass. That is of course if the beer is bright to start with.

I wouldn't be without my refractometer. It is extremely accurate up to the point of adding yeast. So I use it on brew day and after that I use my eyes to monitor fermentation. When I transfer to the secondary FV I take A reading with a hydrometer and again at kegging time.

I did a test yesterday and the answer is no. It's like putting a pan on a low gas. It eventually reaches boiling point.

I use an induction hob to heat sparge water. But I don't think the thermostat is accurate enough to mash with. The temperature gradually creeps up. However I will experiment in the next couple of days.

I brew using a Braumeister. For a 50 litre brewlength I put 55 litres in at the start then sparge with 10 litres after removing the grain. After the boil I top up to the required volume. Usual efficiency is 83%

:lol: Just wait till you find out how much some mugs spend on golf as a hobby. Or cycling/motocross/rallying/photography/music/guitars/pokemon cards etc etc etc. I've spent plenty on photography kit (most still in a cupboard) and another decent sum on guitar/bass/amplifiers/microphones/etc. for an ...

If you do decide to start using cornies make sure you buy a float take off. If you don't you will never get crystal clear beer.
There are several types to choose from. I find that the one from Ballihoo works very well. It is essential to use silicone tube with it not the supplied PVC tube.

You might find it's not necessary to stir the mash, after mashing in thoroughly. Extending the time over an hour or so can increase mash efficiency, but agitating it is unlikely to achieve much worth the effort here. In some cases it can even be counter productive, in terms of suspending particles ...

Please describe how you have connected the fridge and heater.