Jim's Beer Kit

5 gr a litre is twice as much as is needed. Beware when pouring.
When the beer coming out of the tap slows down to a dribble and before air is sucked back in that is the time to add gas.
But with 5 gr priming you will have gas leaking out of the cap and or beer leaking out of the tap.

joe1002 wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 08, 2020 12:15 am

Wow, that’s a hell of a lot for the price. It may help if you state your location.

It clearly states location in the OP

Getting your Chloride/Sulphate ratio correct would be a step in the right direction. Have a look at Graham's water calculator on this forum.

Wonderful stuff, silicone tubing. Easy to work with, being so flexible. I have loads of it in my 3 vessel set up. So much, in fact, that every time I set up for a brewday (now!) it takes a while to work out which bit goes where. I've tried using a 'permanent' marker, tying labels on, wrapping insul...

You might find the adapters on Aliexpress but you biggest problem will be with the sprayball itself. If it is a rotating one try it first attached to a mains pressure feed and if it works I will be amazed. The fixed head type work much better.

The reason that your beer is foaming is that it is over carbonated. It really is that simple. Correctly carbonated beer can be served from a tap fixed directly to the outpost. Forget all of that line length/diameter calculation nonsense that is just an attempt to cure over carbonation.

An important point to remember is priming only speeds up the carbonation process. So if you intend to store the beer for any length of time you need to reduce the amount of priming to prevent over carbonation. I use,for example,2.5 gr a litre for bitters and up to 3.5 gr for Wit beers. Over carbonat...

Thanks for these comments and suggestions. It might be worthwhile fitting a thermometer to sit in the wort and use those readings as a basis for setting the air chamber/thermostat temperature. I've always assumed that the air and wort temps may deviate due to the yeast activity but fermentation has...

It’s more common than you think! I’ve had exactly the same problem inconsistently for the last 18 months using dried yeast (us 05) and yeast scrounged from St Austell Proper Job. In some instances the krausen went through the air lock on it’s increase. To counter the problem I unclip the lid on the...

Wasn't quite sure where to put this, but Ed Wray has dug up a beer festival programme from 1990 , which lists the OG of the beers but not their ABV. So if you ever wondered what the OG of Old Growler (1.055), Brakspear Mild (1.030) or Gales HSD (1.051) were then wonder no more.... Gales HSD ? Must ...

Folks, I’m planning on fitting a pressure gauge to a 2 way gas distribution manifold. I know I need some sealant on the thread to keep it gas tight but I’m not familiar with any products that I could use. Would liquid puff be enough or do I need to go with something more specialist? Thanks in advan...

Download for free Graham Wheeler's water treatment programme on this forum.

https://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/extras.htm

It will do most of what you want. In an English way

As to not using a refractometer during fermentation, my understanding is it's fine as long as one of the online calculators is used to get current SG by relating current Brix to original Brix. Guy I find refractometers very handy on brewdays,in fact I use nothing else, but I have never succeeded wi...

Don't know about digital refractometers but optical ones are not really intended for use once fermentation has started.

wmfd wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 27, 2019 7:34 am

Oh but there’s a replacement, Chemsan, same instructions and seems the same ingredients. (Amazingly made in the UK)

Panic over, as you were!

Plus it's half price this weekend only at the MaltMiller