Jim's Beer Kit

My copy was bought last year and it's the 3rd edition, Waterstones are advertising theirs as "This new edition is re-written...." and was 1st published 2009 which is the 3rd edition so I'd guess there isn't a 4th edition yet. Sorry I can't be more definite than this. edit: £9.59 here - http://www.wh...

Glad it worked OK. I like the way you've used those, with the handle keeping the lid on. I must admit I did think in the advert they didn't really look like SS ones more like some sort of alloy but in your pic they do look a lot better.

Is it me or have you been sealing/varnishing that oak?

just thinking 'aloud' but I guess you're looking for something like the metal strapping used on bigger crates for shipping, a quick google suggests marine and meat/fish industries may use stainless steel strapping, so have you got any big food market/wholesale industrial areas nearby? Or factories o...

Or go mad and get one of these!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-Steel ... 0333903055

This is probably not quite what you're after, for width or thickness, but if actual SS strip is too pricey or impossible to find have you thought about using a stainless steel measuring tape? Cut to length and reverse it so the unmarked back shows? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stanley-0-33-301-Powerloc...

I used these http://www.screwfix.com/p/brass-c-x-c-couplings-15mm-x-8mm/45857 then added a brass bush adapter to get a 3/4" bsp thread http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbing/Compression/Brass+Hexagon+Bush+34+x+12/d20/sd2697/p98490 and finally a brass hozelock connector http://www.toolstation.com/s...

I'd recommend trying your nearest scrap metal recycling dealer first, I asked my local one and between us we dug around in a big pallet sized crate of bent and twisted microbore until we found several coiled lengths of assorted size tube. I grabbed 2 clean undamaged part coils of 6mm and 8mm microbo...

Or maybe a Fitch lock - without the back plate it could attach to the Oak edge and the curved part would hold the lid down ?

http://www.mightonproducts.com/products ... less-steel

As far as I can tell there are several reasons for boiling: DMS removal - "Dimethyl sulfide (DMS) is created whenever wort is heated, by the breakdown of precursors found in pale malts. DMS is present in most beers at some level. It is excessive DMS that gives some home brewed ales a "cooked corn" c...

Ouch!
If I read your comment right that's up to 12kw on heating elements plus any ancillary equipment, 12kw is about 50Amps or so, so you're looking at a supply approaching that of a small house! Lots of chunky copper cable required
I think your electrician is going to be quite cheerful.

Check out Aldi, my local branch has welders reduced to £30, they've been in for ages now. They need a separate fused 40A spur I think so I guess thats why they're not selling.
BTW I'm not a welder so I cannot vouch for quality

Agree with what gnutz2 said, wall thickness does vary - I've had a quick look at my sockets, largest I've got is 30mm, O/D on that is 40mm so I guess you'll be wanting something around 35-40mm.

Don't tell me that now BigDave!

Charva wrote:The crates are a brilliant idea and are going to save me so much earache!!!

Thanks

Thanks charva but I can't take the credit, I was only putting my own twist on other peoples ideas.

I never thought I'd get bitten by the upgrade bug once I had a functioning AG setup, live and learn eh OK so after AG2 (my mates 1st brew) when the boiler cut out mid-boil I decided to remove the little plastic cut out pin and fit a backup element too http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/195/2elements...

I'm not much ahead of you, but I've done 1 ag brew all on my own and one with a mate. Advice I'd give is: get your gear set up then do a dummy run just using water, pick a recipe you're likely to use and use this to give you temperatures, water quantities and timings and then follow it through, heat...