Jim's Beer Kit

Looking forward to all the pics of people’s keg cleaning setups. I recently built an unusual whirlpool arm to go through a 3/4” threaded hole on my kettle. Took 2 months for all the parts to arrive separate from the bay of evil. The water butt pump/ keg washer OTOH was just plugging together some co...

Robwalkeragain wrote:I’d strip it down, ain’t many moving parts, soak in PBW or thin bleach solution then rinse the next morning. Inspect seals (keep a pack of spares on hand anyway). Good as new.

Where do you get spares?

i did think of knocking something up with a sprayball and pump but that still wouldnt clean out the dip tubed etc. I plan to hook up the water butt pump to the coupler to get the dip tube properly clean on the inside. Actually quite happy with the pump and how versatile it is considering the price ...

Look into keg cleaner builds. water butt pumps, spray ball, old fermentation bucket.

you will probably be using multiple chemicals, but you will want to be able to clean the kegs again, not just after first use

Once the pipe (of any sort) kinks, then the kinked area becomes compromised from a strength point of view - so it becomes a site for blowouts. Not all silicone hose is the same, and I would say that once you get down to small bore tubing, it gets hard to find silicone tubing with appropriately thick...

I have inflated PET bottles to 45PSI without any issues.

I use them as portable co2 for mini kegs.

I believe that they will go a lot higher

Edit: and if I watch the end of the video, they will go to 150PSI+

Recipe?

I have had a cube get infected through a perfect storm of sloppy sanitation and ineffective hot wort pasteurisation. I got very very lucky - came home early on a day I was planning to stay out a while and found a swollen cube. Having that blow up in the living room would not make for a good year. St...

Best thing would be to email the manufacturer. Gut feeling is that if its using the same housing/chassis, then its the same part, and the POL nut etc, is a threaded fitting that screws into the BSP fitting on the chassis. Manufacturer wont disclose this in the product description, as we are a very u...

Whilst I wouldn't argue with anything you've said, thanks to another forum member who suggested this some months ago (sorry whoever, can't find the relevant thread) I dropped the late addition hops altogether. Apart from lack of equipment I baulk a bit a using so much water to chill hence no chill....

Unfortunately without running a 25ft hose through the house from kitchen to brewing area then another 10 ft to the garden without the dog's eating the rabbits its just not practical unfortunately, One day when I escape this house for a better one a nice shiney 3 tier, IC, whirlpool, fermenting frid...

Finally biab, no chill was supposed to be the easy no fuss all grain adding a step to boil and cool just seems counter intuitive, wouldn't dry hopping be easier? Or is there some science I have yet to discover. I BIAB and No-Chill. Its a challenge to make hop forward beers. And its the No chill par...

Appears I am wrong. You can get wide range LPG regulators in the UK. They are just rare 'cos not many people would want them. 50-150mbar are ideal for hand-pump anyway, but I've just ordered a "BP1813" variant of my favoured LPG regulator (variable over 20-300mbar) for the odd occasion I might want...

Sorry meant necro post.

Ie replying to a much older post.

- rack/batch prime - bottle - lower conditioning temp gradually down to about 2degC over a few days - leave to lager for hopefully six weeks or more. Bit of a necro thread here, but in case anyone follows this procedure the steps above are in the wrong order. Should be: - fermentation finished - dr...