Jim's Beer Kit

Ah, Thanks Kev for pointing that out. Mine are the other type.

My kettle element died during a brew last week, managed to finish off in the HLT. HLT element is looking pretty gnarly too. I've got 6 or 7 years out of them. They were Tribune S6212 elements (DIN25?) - I'm not sure they were actually stainless. I used a 32.5mm QMax, and a 1.25" backnut. So ideally...

MickJ wrote: ↑

Sat May 11, 2019 6:07 am

Will keep on finding out about the pump and where I can get a porcelain handle .....

Michael

You might look here for a handle. I'm not sure if length is standard, but have found them helpful on the telephone in the past.

It's the chocolate malt. None of it will have been converted to soluble sugars as would happen in a mash with diastatic malt or extract. Chocolate malt has no enzymes of its own. Nothing to worry about other than the finished beer will likely be hazy and you may not get all of the the flavours expec...

Bru 'n water does seem to calculate it for me though based on at least the value of bicarbonate and carbonate. I assume they're not actually salts though then? (My chemistry isn't great, I thought they may have been). Its calculated value matches my water report alkalinity value of 28 though. Sever...

So it was your water report that advised the sample tested had alkalinity of 28 ppm as calcium carbonate. You would therfore enter that value into the calculator, it might in turn convert it to other units of measurement, but it does not calculate it. Alkalinity is not a salt and a salt does not add...

It is more effective to mix the two by adding grains into water than the other way about. Pouring water onto grains is more likely to make dough-balls, clumps of dry grains held together by a wet outer coating. Put your mash liquor at about 80C into the mash tun and stir until the temperature settle...

The oats appeared to be oat husks which are added to aid mash drainage. Consider mixing all the ingredients beforehand. The enzymes will be more evenly distributed through the mash enabling a more speedily and thorough conversion. Ideally you should add grist and liquor together, but otherwise add t...

Through the valve. It works ok as long as the seals are newish and in the right place and I've screwed the valve into place at the right tightness, tight enough to stop gas escaping and not so tight the rubber washer distorts. There are too many variables and it's too annoying. I'd suggest it might...

I find 50 to 75g of invert or brewing sugar usually last the whole barrel.

timbobist wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 17, 2019 9:53 pm

Ha ha free booze..... for scientific purposes of course

We could save on postage and send just the recipes.

Gently screw down the lid, then unscrew slightly and retighten, but not too much. Give it a little squirt of gas, listen and feel for leaks then open tap a little for a moment to check beer flows with some internal pressure. Look for leaks using a paintbrush to apply some water and washing up liquid...

.............am I OK to continue treating both sets of water in the same way in proportion to their volume or should certain 'chemicals/treatments' be restricted to either the mash or the boil? I've read quite a bit more since posting and there seems to be every variation of opinion under the sun s...

It is possible to brew a beer using water without calcium, but it's value has been known to brewers since soon after it was isolated in the early 19th century. Even so, some today think calcium adds only undesired taste and the be all and end all of brewing is a particular mash pH. Further, if the o...

I was always under the impression that commercial breweries only added salts to the mash and adjusted the alkalinity of both mash and sparge liquor? That is the standard advice of Murphy's and is what many breweries that rely on Murphy and Son for water treatment chemicals and advice do. That isn't...