Jim's Beer Kit

MattGuk wrote: ↑

Thu Oct 08, 2020 8:38 am

I don't really have the capabilities to cold crash at the moment so I will leave it in the coolest part of the house for a week maybe?

You might find leaving it outside next week will help.

I recommend using bleach in the FV to make sure you kill everything, a weak solution should be enough. The important caveat is to rinse thoroughly. You could fill with fresh water and add a camden tablet (Sodium Metabisulphite). As long as you are super clean and sanitise evrything I would also reco...

In that case I may well give it a shot. Is there a certain time to add dry hops? Would adding them at just after high Krausen be best? I feel like at that point there will still be a lot of activity, enough to push any oxygen back out. Good questions. There is a theory and some evidence for what is...

When it comes to dry hopping I really don't like the idea of opening my bucket and increasing any chance of microbes getting in and causing a problem. Then you're missing out big time, if you like a lovely aroma as well as flavour. Your caution is understandable but just a little misplaced. Brewers...

FWH is thought to provide a smoother bitterness, some might say it's undetectable, but it isn't about hop flavour as such. That tends to come from later additions. Something that I have noticed giving better hop flavour is using the newish Incognito hop "paste", search on Malt Miller or Get 'Er Brew...

Just tried one of the bottles. Been stored at 13C for 8 days only, decent condition and tasted really good. Degassed a small sample and had dropped 1.5 points even at that temperature. 10L polypin will have to wait for next weekend though as I've not set my hand pump up properly yet. That's quite a...

ristonmike wrote: ↑

Mon Sep 21, 2020 5:50 am

Hi could you please tell me were I could get sheet Plastazote from
Many thanks

He provided the link.

I have just used repitched London Ale yeast (WLP013), dropped it from the FV 5 minutes ago. Due to "issues" the mash ended up circa 64. Result? 80.9% attenuation.

What % of attenuation have you achieved? Is it in the range for the yeast? Try putting up to 22c.

So - I want to attempt the whirl-pool method. I have in mind that the element will cause turbulence that will mess up the central accumulation of hop debris and trub. It shouldn't affect it that much, particularly if you return the wort just under the surface rather than the bottom. The other advan...

3) yeast- yep used about 60g granulated sugar to carbonate. This may be it but thought I'd be through his layer after 4 pints drawn. If it's a bottom tap then not necessarily so. If it still carbonating the yeast will still be rising through the Beer rather than dropping out, particularly as you me...

MattGuk wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 09, 2020 12:04 pm

I should have added that this is no sparge, also in a brewmonk with recirc going through the entire mash.
Maybe my wort wasn't mixed properly post boil, however I was whirlpooling ( sort of )

Suggests your preboil wort and post boil wort was mixed well so looks like we're back to a reading error.

(Thought I'd better change the title, as the topic has moved from its' starting point...) So for those who use pure O2, where do you get your cylinders from? What other equipment is needed? I'm guessing a suitable regulator? Airstone (oxygen stone)? Suitable tubing? And what costs are we looking at...

PeeBee wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 08, 2020 5:35 pm

(Oh Gawd. Apollo 1 here we come!).

If only that was the only hazard.

I always take my preboil sample just as the wort is coming to the boil so have never seen that, as it is already evenly mixed that must be why.