Jim's Beer Kit

A bit late to this thread but I absolutely know where you are coming from johnnyboy. I did Extract brewing for many years before moving to AG, everyone said "you won't look back when going AG" but I was underwhelmed and think my beers were as good with Extract as they were with AG. The only thing wi...

Thanks for the recipe, I'm going to give that a go.

I'd love to see the recipe for Pelforth Brune too, one of my favourite continental beers

The single-hop NS brew from the Greg Hughes book is a cracker, I brewed it recently. It's now all gone and I want to use up the NS, but haven't got enough for a full brew, so need to combine it with something. Thinking about Chinook at the bittering stage.

That should work fine, I never brew Wherry to full volume anyway.

Like you I tend to brew the single cans, I just bottled one this morning - a 10L brew to which I added some Willamette. 10L=18ish pints so 16 pints should just come out a bit stronger.

What made you consider 5% aromatic malt?

I've not used this malt before and not seen it in many recipes but was thinking of using is to make a dark English ale a bit more fruity, hence the question?

I tweaked one of these last summer and it came out nice. In addition to the kit and spraymalt or enhancer, I steeped 150g of pale crystal malt (I used Caragold) for 30mins in 4 litres of hot water <70C for 30mins. After straining the grains out, I boiled 13g of Willamette and 13g of Styrian Goldings...

I've been caught out by this too recently: I usually order medium crystal malt from a selection of suppliers and it comes around 140EBC. I was buying some stuff from another regular suppliers and added some medium crystal, when it arrived it was only 80 EBC. I should have checked more when I ordered...

Recipe looks OK to me. Personally I don't see much point in 15/10/5 min separate hop additions, I'd just go for one late boil addition at 10 or 15, plus the hop steep at the end and dry hop. You can add all the extract at the start or half and then the other half towards the end. In fact I've added ...

Glad I came across this thread, had a cheeky Dec break in Belgium 2 weeks ago and it reminded me how good their beers are. So a Dubbel brew is planned early in the new year and I was trying to decided which MJ yeast to use.

The packets seem like "the same old yeast" but it's a good strain, never had a problem with it provided you use enough of it - 6g for 23L was insufficient.

Sorry not really understanding your logic - the recipe says add 2.3kg DME, where do you get the subtract 0.9kg from? I do wish they'd size these recipes for whole 500g or 1kg bags of DME because it clumps up as soon as it hits the moist air, so trying to measure out .3kg and keep the rest of the bag...

I do this all the time. I usually size my recipes to take a full 1kg bag of DME and then do a partial AG with around 1-2 kg of grain. Why do I do it? It allows me to use my current setup (15L stockpot on the hob), reduced time in volume of water to heat up and cool. I've gone back to this method aft...

just bought a werry kit and you now get 2 packs of 6g yeast with the kit Yes they finally responded to what the homebrewing community had been telling them for years and added a 2nd packet of yeast into the Wherry kits to bring it up to the usual 11/12g of yeast required for a 40 pint kit. Wonder i...

I've heard before that there are different instructions about. Personally, I do ferment these on the warm side whereas everything else gets fermented 18-20C.

Just had my last bottle of Abdij this lunchtime - brewed 2 years, 3months ago! It was very nice.