Jim's Beer Kit

You need some head space to get the carbonation. No or little head space will result in low carbonation.

Do you have a picture of the tower and the shanks? If the shanks are what it think they are then you can get a connector that screws on and accepts 3/8" line, you can then use a reducer.

chris2012 wrote:Ah, that's very interesting re. the pressure I didn't realise that, so that'd be around 30psi, which my mixed gas reg should hopefully do. Yeah I got the de-pressurising tool with coupler.

The gas doesn't come into contact with the beer so plain old co2 will be fine.

Casks

Depends what type of keg you want really. Sankey kegs get my vote but they all have their advantages and disadvantages.

I've never used plastic kegs, from what I have read they seem more trouble than they are worth but others opinions / experiences may differ.

The disconnects are a slightly different size. I can't remember which way around it is as I sold my cornies a few years ago but if you get one on the wrong post they arent easy to get off, I have first hand experience

I used a GF today in their comp, I must say I was rather impressed with it. IMO, the new controller is a lot better, mainly because it uses a pid for the element and you don't have to keep lifting a flap to use the switches / buttons. It doesn't have have hop addition reminders like the bm nor does...

Kyle_T wrote:Just rack into a new cask before leaving and carry it bright.

Yep, that's what I would do too.

If you are careful you shouldn't loose too much carbonation, particularly as you will be serving fairly soon after.

I used a GF today in their comp, I must say I was rather impressed with it. IMO, the new controller is a lot better, mainly because it uses a pid for the element and you don't have to keep lifting a flap to use the switches / buttons. It doesn't have have hop addition reminders like the bm nor does ...

guypettigrew wrote:Love the Neutriks! What's the source for these, please?

Guy

http://www.neutrik.com/en/world-wide-agents

I use a hop spider, all my hops both bittering and later additions go into it. http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag143/LeithR/DSC00118_zpsrf7r6nxr.jpg I find this works well to limit the amount of debris that goes into the wart. The HS is homemade. You seem to have had a slight boil over issue :l...

Can't say I have ever experienced it stalling either but I too pitch it fresh from the brewery and ferment at 20-21c. What are your OG's and fermentation temps?

Bunglebrewsbeer wrote:Does the CO2 connect to the cask widge thing? And a breather thing needed to allow a bit in as its drawn out.


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Spot on.

I am only just starting to use casks but I know others who use them with no problems. You will need to buy keystones and shives but if you will be using a caskwidge you won't need any spiles. you will need some co2 though, and a large mallet. You will need to know your FG's and not rack until you ge...

I think the shipping was the same for one or two pins (perhaps more), so it made sense to order two

No, no minimum order. The casks were £29 each and shipping was £11. Add vat to all that made it £82.80 delivered for 2 pins (4.5 gallons each).

They are very helpful on the phone, I don't imagine the firkins (9 gallons) will be a huge amount more is that is what you are after but give them a call.