Jim's Beer Kit

I am more looking to get my head around the fining process and adding stabilisers such as Sodium Metabisulphite prior to bottling. I understand the latter helps to slow down any oxygenation however when reading up on some finings they say to stir it in gently for a minute or so, do people see the s...

So the steps would be along the lines of - Make kit up and ferment - Add finings once fermentation is complete (I take it you add them cold like beer)? - Once cleared rack to a bottling vessel & add Sodium Metabisulphite to correct dosage allowing to sit for 12 hours before bottling? The Sodium Met...

We've all probably done it some time in our brewing career, it's been my favourite Hillbillyism! Don't worry, it will be fine. As already mentioned, it may take a little longer to clear & still have a slight haze, but it won't affect the taste of the finished brew.

I always do a starter when using liquid yeast. Certainly cuts the lag time down.

My boil is only rolling with the lid on At the very least, you should be venting your brew during the boil to let the "volatiles" escape. If they're settling on the inside of your boiler lid & falling back into the brew, that can cause it to be harsh tasting. Maybe crack part of your lid open to al...

Make sure that you don't push the tubing too far up though Jim, there's a risk of putting a hole in the filter pad if you do. Don't ask me how I know that.

Push a length of tubing into, rather than over the outlet Jim.


http://uk-homebrew.tripod.com/id28.html

4th pic down is how I do it.

Yes, the sediment will settle down again & your wine will clear. Maybe consider racking/filtering your wine before you bottle it next time?

If you intend to lay them down, stand them upright for a couple of days before you do. This will allow the corks to grip the inside of the bottles after being compressed in a corking tool, preventing "weeping".

My house bitter, 90% pale malt, 6% crystal malt, 4% torrified wheat, Goldings hops 36 ebu, &20g last 10 mins of the boil.

A fair bit from Newcastle, but the Durham coastal footpath area at Horden was awash with blackberries & sloes last year.

I use these, silicon coated. Slightly more expensive than standard corks, but they're very easy to use, they slide into the bottles without hardly any effort & I've never had one split. I use a twin lever corking tool as well.

GAZ9053 wrote:
if you want a decent red then start with California connoisseur or beaverdale as the minimum price range, i have tried the cheaper ones and they are not the best IMHO.

Seconded. If you want a "walk through" on kit winemaking, click on the uk homebrew link in my signature.