Jim's Beer Kit

HTH1975 wrote: ↑

Tue May 15, 2018 8:32 pm

You’ll get very little hop character coming through from the first bittering addition

in an american ipa sure, but elsewhere you might be suprised. challenger especially for me i use to bitter for the flavour carryover

in addition to einbrew's post the other benefit of two smaller elements is that if one faults for any reason you can still continue with the other. a well built system can boil 60 litres with half of 5kw no problem at all. the extra power is just useful for quicker heatup times

well i do 'cause i just nick some wort out of the boil for immediate use or to freeze for later.

the key question is; what are you making the starters out of?

this question comes up all the time and always seems to divide opinions as realistically it's hard to calculate. i'd just pick one way of doing it and stick to that method each time, like fil says adjusting for next time depending on if you want more or less..

does it taste bland?!

I like magnum myself.. but if you don't then yeah any of those methods will change it. you may have more luck blending with another beer though to dilute the flavour.

yup that's the one I was thinking of!

just outta interest which variable(s) are you controlling and how?

fil probs knows.. which pid allows charlie to keep the same ntc probe? I know the inkbird (sestos rebrand?) doesn't allow for them so a new pt100 probe would be needed. may or may not be a consideration depending on if it's a badass footlong SS NTC probe or not.. :p

The trouble with cleaning copper until it's shiny is it can then dissolve into your beer - until the copper builds up another passivation layer. I doubt a (tiny) bit of copper is harmful? It's toxic to bugs which isn't going to cause lost sleep. something I've considered too. thing is that wort is ...

3 years in a keg with bret presumably means a FG of zero not neccessarily. sounds like a fun opportunity really. i'd definitely be tempted with further souring n all that jazz for some of it. then i'd probably just brew whatever milds/porters/pales i wanted to drink anyways and just blend a bit fro...

also some require 12/24V and some 230V to power the unit. obviously it doesn't matter at all which you get but it will affect your design. one might be more convenient than the other.

yeah i've looked in all the usual places. couplers aren't any help. i'm currently bodging something together but i was curious about the stuff. i'm also not convinced it isn't 1/4", which wouldn't be a problem if soldering but maybe with compression i dunno.

one for the gas engineers perhaps.. what's the deal with 6mm copper tube.. seems i can buy the stuff in rolls, but none of the usual plumbing places seem to sell fittings for it. is it only used for very specific purposes, with premade equipment? just got a gas stove i haven't got an adapter for tha...

it's not a physical manual, it's all on the website. i read it when researching for mine (although rims was always going to be more suited for me)

4 thoughts as a simple rims user.. controlling A at a temperature calibrated for system inefficiencies seems to me the logical option for maintaining (note not arriving at) a mash temperature. this would also requite a thermometer at B though to monitor and calibrate. controlling B should be fine wi...

i get that it's tempting for a shorter brewday, but the quality is such a dropoff i'm a bit unconvinced. i believe they can be improved with minimashes and hop teas and decent yeast but by the time you've done that i honestly find it a lot easier and less fn around (not to mention cheaper) to fire u...