Jim's Beer Kit

Using my method above


California Common

No gunk in the keg after the first half pint, but obviously don't shake the keg around. Because I'm adding cold beer to the keg, I just gently pour the gelatine in, add the lid, purge and connect to the gas to carbonate. I keep my kegerator around 7/8 degrees anyway. I also have sanke kegs, but the ...

When you have finished fermenting, then chill the beer for 24/48 hours. This will help drop the yeast. Then add the gelatine whilst still cold. leave for 24/48 hours then keg. Or alternatively chill in secondary, then keg, add gelatine, and your first half pint may be murky after a few days. I use g...

BrannigansLove wrote:Refractometers are inaccurate when there is alcohol in the liquid. Any refractometer readings need to be corrected (you'll need to know your SG).

http://www.brewersfriend.com/refractometer-calculator/

But to clarify, accurate pre-ferment

Sticking cling film over the top would be OK.

If you are wondering what you would have left after mixing your water with Ashbeck 50:50, you can easily work out dilution rates by mixing, either manually or using an online calculator (I think brewersfriend or Braukeiser has one). You will then have a new base water profile to work on.

I've just received oxygen kit. Disposable bottle and regulator from welduk

Do it right make up one of these :- http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/74451-tight-arse-counter-pressure-bottle-filler/#entry1062270 I made one they work real well and with very very little loss of carbination, if your going into glass bottles chill them first. ATB. aamcle That won't work for a stan...

I would never go that route. Incidentally, however, Cloudwater use lactic acid according to their blog for their DIPA. And a fellow brewer uses it successfully on hard water around here. But as for ph5.2, no thanks

Your findings for a chloride:sulphate ratio of 1.5:1 for sparging giving the best results are noted. You would probably agree that moving from a chloride:sulphate of 3:1 to 3:1 would make a greater difference to a dark beer than any amount of change in alkalinity in the mash. For a Black IPA doing ...

I would ask for your money back!

There is a good blog here which discusses water treatment for black IPA. I found best success by sparging through the dark grains and a 1.5:1 chloride to sulphate ratio. As Eric points out a usual sulphate heavy profile will make the beer to astringent.

The above is all well and good, but usually the distance selling regulations apply. One of the benefits of being in a Member State
http://www.citizensinformation.ie/en/co ... lling.html

Yep I can see them too. Very shiny [emoji6]

I sprinkle the dark grains on the mash after first run off and sparge through. I use choc and CS too. No roastiness