Jim's Beer Kit

Hmm. I wonder if there's an interfering flavour - like many have said oxidizing can be a massive culprit there. What water treatment are you using exactly? Dwb & ams?

I would be really surprised if us-05 and Windsor in a fairly low strength pale weren't well on the way to completing by day 3. What you're reading about is ester production - most of that happens early on, so raising the temperature even to the late 20s is unlikely to cause much obstruction to the e...

Yea pretty much the only way to get a big hop aroma is cold side hopping, when you add hops to heat it flashes off a lot of myrcene which is the main aroma oil in big fruity hops like mosaic, Simcoe etc. Grab a Syphon filter. Brew a plain beer US beer and dry hop with 200g loose pellets. Bottle/keg ...

Sounds like a good excuse to brew a strong winter stout for bottles...can also use it for colour adjusting in small quantities. Otherwise just don't get tied to it, no point brewing a bunch of beers you don't like for the sake of a few quid worth of grain

13ml per pint, ish. So half an alcohol unit/percent added. Nevermind eh!

Blackberries are out at the mo and suit a stout and black forest style perfectly, mayaswell use a hand full and they'll give you loads of colour, same with elderberries.
Small but obvious tip, make sure the skins come into contact with the beer, plenty of colour and flavour in there - pureed is fine.

Yeast will scavange oxygen after the ferment, so assuming it gets going again oxygen won't cause any oxidizing, and with a big gravity beer, adding oxygen is usually worthwhile. Can't see any issues but tbh t-58 will probably chew it dry regardless.

Suppose it depends what you want to achieve from the beer. What you're brewing there is close to Graff, a blend of cider and beer. The beer side of the recipe is fairly similar to Vocation Life & Death so if you blend that with apple cider you'll probably get a fair idea of whether it's worth brewin...

Iirc I had this same issue with a batch of under bittered beer (800L of it) and emailed Ritchie's. They were fairly swift at getting back to me with the proper dosage to calculate the addition properly, so send them an email. Why they don't give it out on the packaging is beyond me

1ml pipette and a pint of beer might be your best friend here!

I wouldn't put Nottingham past anything! It's huuunngrry!

My guess would be protein haze at such low temperatures, have you tried adding an auxillary fining directly into the corny? Should drop it bright in 2 days and you only need something like 50ml so should sit under the tap feed...

I suppose the issue is knowing the aa% and calculating IBUs based on that. Plus bittering hops are cheap as chips - but I would recommend Admiral myself, high aa% and assertive bitterness, excellent storage, but also very nice as an aroma or dry hop particularly for big English IPAs.

a-slayer wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 16, 2018 3:15 pm

I have tried Nottingham and Windsor thinking it would be a good combination in theory, in practice.. I had a murky brew that wouldn't clear until finings were added, never bother again!

Yeah Windsor is very low flocculating so that doesn't surprise me at all! Tastes great though..

If it helps, bathams are well known to use inverted sugars quite extensively. I wouldn't be surprised if most of the colour comes from a dark invert