Jim's Beer Kit

Which is what RO users do, except instead of reducing alkalinity chemically and adjust salts, they strip and build from the ground up. It's quite a simple concept. Different approach to the same end result. The question is whether you prefer all the extra water components in your beer, that have no...

KISS - Love it been advocating it since 2003 Measure the alkalinity of the brewing water using a salifert kit. Adjust with either hydrochloric or sulphuric acids (NOT Phosphoric!) or a mix to a desired range for the beer you are brewing (Pale ales ~20, stouts up to 120) Add up to 100mg/l calcium eit...

For cleaning I use PBW. After a year of using Oxi in various forms I found I was regularly getting a film or other crud on equipment if left to soak in it. I switched to PBW, which doesn't have the same issue but is expensive. Having said that it's very effective at low doses so you can be very fru...

There is a well known phrase, that gets used at chez aleman on occasion Intelligence is knowing tomato is a fruit, wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad. This can be reworded. Intelligence is knowing cucumber is a 'fruit', (technically not, it's an expanded pericarp :D ) Wisdom is not trying to ...

Actually HMCE do allow ABV Calculations based on refractometers. (the phrase is "a calibrated measuring device" ) If they are that bad, why do people who use both the refractometer, AND HIGHLY ACCURATE HMCE NARROW RANGE HYDROMETERS, actually report accurate calibration between the wort brix value an...

I have to say I don't worry particularly about readings until I get close to FG. For that I use a final gravity hydrometer in 1 degree graduations, similar to the one Aleman mentions. I think mine is 0.5 degree graduations. :D Yes, the fudge factor does depend a lot on the wort composition, but tha...

All American 930 Pressure Canner

With a decent correction formula the refractometer. Look Up Sean Terrils work

I still use both, but I do have a nice 0.990 - 1.020 hydrometer for finishing gravity readings

I have the milwaukee version it's brilliant! . . .I have compared it to an actual Hanna one, and apart from the colour it's pretty identicaL. . . even down to the Made in Romania embossing on the case ... I got mine from the States on eBay and it was considerably cheaper than the Hanna

I buy deionised Iron water from Morrisons . . . but that's because I can hide it on the grocery bill .

Be careful with 'water' from ECP . . . Battery top up water may contain sulphuric acid

One thing I will say, is that I treat it as one use, I.e. pour/ spray, shake, drain out . . . NEVER collect and reuse, that should be a golden rule for any sanitiser . . . Never, Ever, Reuse.

This is what I've gleaned from the various posts and webcasts that Charlie Talley of 5 Star has done

If it's cloudy and below pH3 then it's fine to use, BUT DO NOT make up extra and store it.

If it's clear, and below pH 3.0, make up a lot of working solution, store it, use as required

MARMITE wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 15, 2017 8:20 am

I'm now turning my attention to lager where very soft water seems to be required.

That's a fallacy!

MARMITE wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 15, 2017 8:20 am

The problem is the calcium where even if you start with RO water, you can't add calcium without adding an anion which presumably has to be chloride.

That too, is not correct!

I have a 150L 3V Setup and a 20L Braumeister . . . No not interested in going back to the 20L 3V setup.

The BM takes some 'adjusting' of techniques and methods but once done it's great bit of kit . . The same applies to the GF BTW

My Adjustable reg doesn't have a dial on it, but I rarely have need to turn it up from the lowest point. It is possible to blow the flame out if it is too high, but at 150mBar I've not had it happen yet. . . a 0.5 to 4Bar reg may very well do so easily. As I said, if you are going above around 8KW t...