Jim's Beer Kit

http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/aca ... owers.html

They got them about a month after I bought mine from the US!

Everywhere seems to one made by the same company. It's worth replacing the PVC tubing as I found it gave the beer (and carbonated water) a fizzy taste.

I've only fly sparged... is it out of the question for you? You could still recirc in between transfers to the kettle, I believe waiting helps increase efficiency. Otherwise I'm not sure how post mash clarity will affect beer clarity. There is a lot that happens in the boil and FV that changed clari...

If you want a SG gadget then get a BeerBug.

Depends on your setup. I prefer to have 24V rather than 240V for pumps. I have two pumps but rarely use them both at the same time... if I do, one is normally just circulating water in the HLT while heating so that it heats evenly.

I have a type 3 from Angel buy have had ones that looked like that. If you can't spring for the more expensive fully stainless then they are great. To be honest I might sell my type 3 and buy the type 4.

No worries, if you have any more questions I'd be happy to help.

I have a plate chiller for my 60L batches. Cools from boil to pitch in about 20 mins. Cleanup isn't a pain: I send the hot water output of the plate chiller to my HLT meaning I have a supply of relatively hot water, add PBW and pump the 'wrong' way through the wort side of the chiller. The cleaning ...

Jambo wrote:

och29 wrote: My setup is a little different in that I keep my kegs at ambient and run the beer through an under counter (pub style) cooler.

As do I! Means you have to be more exacting with line balancing and understanding of how to setup kegs but works flawlessly in the end!

Yes, PID control is taken from HERMS out I use a valve - all my pots have a valve attached to an input near the top and I have mag coupled pumps... works well for me and if I upgrade the pumps to a different voltage it will still work . Compression to threaded fittings on the coil the threaded tee Y...

I normally have good carbonation in a corny within a week. Occasionally shaking the keg for the first few days helps get the CO2 to dissolve but you'll need to leave it to settle especially if you have some sediment still in suspension. My view is that serving pressure and carbonation pressure shoul...

7. That's what I do 8. Use a three way Tee, have the output of the HERMS and the sensor in the two opposing sides, put the connector that will take the wort back to the mash tun on the other side... so it comes out at a right angle. This prevents clearance issues with the probe and the tee. Connect ...

I have a fully stainless HERMS so: 1. / 2. Stainless does have relatively poor heat transfer compared to copper but copper dissolves in acidic solutions such as wort so I and many others don't use copper in our kit. You can buy pre-coiled stainless tube as an immersion wort chiller. 3. I use a 24V p...

As someone who uses RO water I would say that you can get excellent results using your normal tap water. RO machines are only useful if you have a good understanding of water chemistry, know what water profile you want for the style you're brewing and can't make that profile using your existing wate...

The trick to opening them is to get them cold. CO2 dissolves better in cold liquid (yes, better in cold is a bit counter intuitive) so if the bottles are cold then the CO2 will stay in solution and stop it fizzing when you open it.

I would suggest between 6 and 8g of table sugar per litre (assuming you haven't cooled it below fermentation temp). What you really want is a priming calculator. Brewers Friend have a good one. I primed to get 3.5 volumes of CO2 but since you don't want it too fizzy, the above amounts work out at be...