Jim's Beer Kit

I've used a number of disposal methods over the years: Great answer! I think composting has always worked well for me, assuming you have setup a compost heap already that is already going along well. I wouldnt recommend *starting* a compost heap with spend grain, for much the same reason that I wou...

10g priming into the 5L casks, and maybe 20-40 into the polypin - dont overprime.

You can get a great pint of real ale that way, but its worth putting a rigid frame around the poly while it is conditioning.

I'm not too optimistic, but asking never hurts: One of my absolute favourites is O'Hara's Irish Red. Have any of you a good idea about the recipe? O'Hara's pretty tight-lipped, and I've never come any closer than what they let out about it on their site. Only thing I've heard outside of that is tha...

john luc wrote: ↑

Tue Oct 06, 2020 10:25 pm

https://www.nationalhomebrewclub.ie/for ... -question/
This is an old thread but has the information on the recipe

Ha! I knew I posted the details somewhere! Always thought it was on a UK site ...

Look around, they have released the malt bill and proportions in the past

You could source some Belgian bottles from a craft beer bar or off licence or Belgian themed pub (Belgo/lowlander). In my experience Orval bottles themselves are very good but you are unlikely to have a lot of them about. Belgian stubby bottles are very good, and easy to come by. But best if all wou...

brewpete wrote:Have bought a dehydratior with some silicone perforated sheets what fit in it I brew in 180l batches and don't fancy 50 pound a go on yeast each time I brew

Dehydrator would be a good way to go IMO.

You will need to aerate well and add yeast nutrients in good quantities

Multiple methods. The easiest is pitch straight onto the old yeast cake. You will get activity before you have the lid back on, and expect it to hit terminal in 24 hrs or so. I have a conical, and have drawn off samples into sanitised jars, and kept them in a fridge repitching a few weeks later. I d...

Juffer wrote:You say you are pitching at 35 - 40c, have you tried the lower end of the scale at 30c?

Yes. Clean as a whistle

The malt miller sell a bespoke part that fits corny posts onto a 2” tri clamp ferrule, it has a flexible dip tube that you could attach a cask widge float onto, which would be very handy for these sankey -> fermenter conversions. I am looking to get into this for pressure fermentation. A good source...

I don't want to generalise my experience here (too many other variables in play) but I have found this to attenuate well from first pitch, and it is easy to repitch (but know what you are dealing with when you let the generations go too high). I am finding it a challenge to bring malt character thro...

I have upgraded my ss chronical dump valve to a butterfly valve, as the 3/4” valves don’t cut it for dumping trub/yeast/hops

I have been using this exclusively for about 8 months now. It is clean AF, and an absolute beast at chewing through wort. You can coax a very interesting orange Ester out of it if you underpitch. I am finding that the beers can be a little on the tart side , but that might be just the excessive gene...

Saving this. My 50-150 lpg regulator is the most used regulator in the brewery.

Someday I will get my handpull sorted to use it to push real ale out of my kegs.

But would defo use an adjustable with a higher range

I used to give it to the chickens. It's surprising how much 4 of them could deal with! Even after mashing it's probably a bit like giving a child a packet of Maltesers. Now i simply chuck it on the compost heap. Did you stop giving it to the chickens, or just put them on a small ration? I have hear...