Jim's Beer Kit

i reckon jambo's point about purging the o2 is probably the important one. i either prime kegs or transfer when the yeast is still active as that is supposed to help too. it also saves me using co2 from the tank.. if you're bored of bottling i wouldn't do this though. wait to see how annoying it is ...

https://www.bes.co.uk/propane-low-press ... kg-hr-8802

male bsp to john guest adaptor in each end. you can mount it through a keezer with some m5 stud too

i reckon Chug means that given the huge amount of yeast you need for pitching a lager it makes sense to use all that slurry while you got it rather than having to grow up a massive starter from a small bottle..

spent a while myself thinking about DIY'ing this (seriously i must have spent more time dreaming up and building fermentation cooling/heating systems than.. !!). got about as far as turning an old keg spear into a coldfinger! i think the main benefit of these is they're an elegant compact solution t...

never used pilgrim but it's not a standard progress flavour. i have a coupla times had a really strong honey scent to a beer (markable because i really don't like honey!) but have had a hard time pinning it down to anything in particular. once i blamed it on the s. aurora hops, but another time it s...

Quite a few observe that subsequent generations perform better. I think it has more to do with questionable quality of the initial yeast pitched. that's my implication really. clearly the drying process is stressful and that's before you take into account everything the pack goes through to get to ...

i'd just echo McMullan's last comment. the only benefit i can think of with dried yeast is convenience with not needing to aerate the wort or make a starter. as soon as you cross that barrier you may as well be using liquid yeast. for what it's worth i do think you get improved performance out of dr...

:lol: Phil i was just thinking i was sure it wasn't that recent an update but my memory isn't always great! seems like i was giving the same advice back then as now too! forums do tend to have more than a hint of deja vu to them but hey it's good to chat and sometimes new things come to light :beer:

for interest, a sample done 13 months ago with southampton water (mg/L): calcium 115 alkalinity 230 chloride 20,6 sulphate 14,2 pH 7,1 but the alkalinity has varied around 40ppm and the pH has varied too at various points of the year so to rely on one datapoint or "what works for someone else" would...

the water company figures are a guideline at best and shouldn't be relied upon for brewing as they will change throughout the year. as wallybrew said earlier test the alkalinity yourself as that is the important one. calcium too. i could dig out a water analysis report for south hampshire done by wa...

did i miss what yeast you use? that's pretty vital to give advice on the recipe. i've found some to really emphasise a smooth, almost milk chocolate character in pale chocolate malt to a point where even a tiny bit was really out of place in a bitter (for my tastes anyways, so i've usually used regu...

does a video help? plenty on youtube

I'm just curious, how many people bottle naturally carbonated bottles without adding priming sugar? I don't mean when someone may have left a point or two to go above the expected FG, but when it is fully fermented out. well the quick answer is the obvious one. ferment beer out. bottle. don't prime...

It's 3/8 beer line. Had a huge roll of it in the house. The high amount of lines is more for making a robust scaffold that I can attach insulation to. The plan is that the kegs get changed rather than every keg getting clad, and I may need more coils anyway because I won't have perfect contact. coo...

at that volume you wont need much insulation to maintain temperature for an hour or so. i find the rims is most useful for heating the mash liquor in the tun and then step mashing / mashout.