Jim's Beer Kit

Yes, only use the amount of extract you need for the boil, otherwise it will darken during the boil. Add the rest a few minutes from the end of the boil to sterilise. Also note that LME will drop to the bottom of your pan when you pour it in - stir it in well or you may scorch it on the bottom of yo...

DC, what a great brew day thread. Been thinking about sour beer having had quite a bit from the excellent Kernel brewery recently, and then I noticed you'd bumped this thread. I've actually been looking at a bunch of ways to make sour beer, and I feel like yours is probably one of the simplest and b...

I'm going to start my first extract a IPA and a Pilsner I would love Your help please for the recipe and method . IPA Better brew IPA LME 2.1 kg Malt caramel abbey 500g or should I just use 250g is 500g far to much ? Munton DME light 500g Hops admiral 30g 60 min boil is this right Hops fugues 30g ....

Thanks jim Extract brew only. One more question for you all I've read on the home page to steep malts for 30 mins . also read to add malt to the brew pot when water is cold and remove before water starts to boil . Or do you add malts to brew pot when water is cold, then when water hits 65c knock of...

Ferment appears to be well done. Down to 1.021, making this a touch over 5%.

Bit of a taste gives lots of toastiness and a big sweet body. A bit like an super strength brown mild.

Very nice. Couple more weeks to clear in the fermenter and then into the bottle for a month I think.

Hi all, bit of a general question. Up to now I have always used wet yeast packs (Wyeast - only because my local store has plenty in stock/good range) but am planning to use a dry yeast sachet from Fermentis w 34/70. Would it be better to just chuck it directly into the wort, or is best practice do ...

Does the orange peel really add a difference? If so, how much do you need?

I'm quite surprised that the delicate oils that provide the beautiful flavour in orange zest survive a 5 minute boil.

There seems to be many an argument about mashing thickness etc. but in m experience its worth keeping it simple. See what you produce. If you're happy with that, your beer is good. If not, make some changes. +100 to that. Keep it simple, measure everything and keep lots of notes on what you did, be...

As I understand it, mashing with all your liquor will produce a thin mash, which will I turn give you a more fermentable beer. I'm not saying you'll make bad beer, but you'll have a bit less control over the end product. You could instead mash thick, bring it up to mash out temperature and then add ...

Great to hear. Well done Seymour.

And 24 hours on it appears to be done. If it's fermented out properly WLP002 could well be the SAS of yeasts.

Big question to help you scale this - how much beer do you want to make? You can either go: Mini-BIAB - boil the full volume of wort you get from mashing, perhaps with some top up water + Positives - closest to all grain technique, will produce beer as good quality as possible - Negatives - gives yo...

This appears to be a forum favourite - if you're happy with it I'll scale it and provide you with some rough instructions for your BIAB: SEYMOUR - MORRELLS VARSITY BITTER CLONE The pint of choice for C.S. Lewis and J.R.R. Tolkien during the Oxford years. 6 US gallons = 5 Imperial Gallons = 22.7 Litr...

The amount of water will vary depending upon your recipe, whether you have other vessels. But a ratio of 3.25:1 (3.25 litres per KG of grain) is a medium thick mash. At the end of the mash you can top up with very hot water to bring it up to 76/77C for mash out and to rinse out some of the sugars fr...

Well I guess my yeast starter worked ok - plenty of bubbling this morning (14 hours after pitching), and by this evening, 12 hours later it looks like high krausen has come and gone, albeit with lots of bubbling still.

WLP002 is a rapid one.