Jim's Beer Kit

I'm sure your Christmas Ale was delicious Eric.

Back on the subject at hand, reading this web page there does seem to be some reasoning behind the new packaging: https://www.whitelabs.com/news-update-detail?id=93 we have seen that yeast stays highly viable (over 90% on average) for up to 7 months from date of production release! With double the c...

Not sure what you're getting at, but it's not a yeast for 'hazy' beers. I've never had to filter it, Brewbrite has always done the work for me. It's just incredibly neutral, and accentuates hops and malt. It's also reliably fast and alcohol tolerant - I've used it for everything from a 3.5% lager to...

The real question is why Chris at WhiteLabs decided to make the change. There appears to be no advantage to the home brewer with the larger pack. As my earlier post shows, both the old and new size packs perform equally well when pitched into a brew straight from the sachet. Developing the new 'Nex...

Brewbrite already has carageenan (protafloc) in it, so shouldn’t need any more.

[If you’re bottling from a corny keg and you have the keg cold you can fill a bottle using a party tap on around 2 metres of 3/16” beer line.

This beer was at 16 PSI at 5C. If you have your beer at a lower pressure then you can use a bit less beer line.

As long as you fill the bottle fairly high (about 1cm from the top) and cap it with foam coming out the neck, then the beer will keep very well. I'd also recommend using crown caps, as nearly all of them have an oxygen scavenging liner The only difficulty is getting the beer in the bottle without ex...

It's worth getting to know a yeast by brewing with it a few times. Yeasts like WLP002 can be used for a big range of styles - bitters, blonde/golden ales, stout, even hoppy American IPAs. If you brew regularly it also means you can reuse the yeast between batches.

The short version of my answer is that if you like the beer fermented at 22C with this yeast then ferment your beer at 22C! Brewing is very much about finding what works for you in your brewery. Repeat brewing the same beer many times with a single change each time is a very powerful way of learning...

If you’ve been brewing with DME or LME, boiling and adding you own hops then jumping to all grain really isn’t very difficult and worth it for the added maltiness.

You can just repitch slurry - the amount depends upon freshness, the new wort gravity and the yeast you are using, but I'd say for starting gravity up to 1.055 half a pint is plenty into 5 gallons. When you're done bottling just leave a tiny bit of beer on top of the yeast, swirl it up to get yeast ...

Nothing to worry about.

Your chiller only has a small capacity. I’ve heard stories of people ending up with litres of sanitiser in their fermenter and the beer turned out fine.

Here’s one from Crisp - haven’t brewed it myself, but their recipes generally seem to be bang on: https://crispmalt.com/recipes/ruby/ I also made a fruity porter with: 78% Maris Otter 11% Brown 9% Crystal 240 EBC 2% Chocolate OG was 1.053, FG 1.017 Mash at 68 C I fermented with yeast brown from bott...

Modest use of DRC and a range of medium and dark crystal malts is the way to get the fruitcake flavours in a beer.

An interesting and nicely put together description of that experience and if your readings were by hydrometer, the outcome seems ideal. It's a while since using either Wyeast or Whitelabs yeasts and while their outcomes were mostly OK, there were frequent doubts and occasional resorts to pitching m...