Wyeast 1275 Thames Valey

[Sneezewort]

Horden Hillbilly wrote:
The bitter I started a week ago today took a couple of days before the yeast kicked in, It started at og 1046, it has only dropped to 1024 in a week.

If this yeast is the Brakspear yeast I am surprised at the length of time for it to get going. I have always used the Brakspear, previously used by Whethereds and also used now by Rebellion, which I "steal" from bottles of Brakspear Organic. Regularly I pitch in the evening after a day brewing, its working well by the next morning and climbing out of the fermenting bin by the next evening. I have just racked my current brew (Tuesday am) at 1010 made last Thursday at 1050, so 5 days start to finish of initial fermentation. I too have the same result of floccing on the surface but it seems to work OK.
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[iowalad]

I racked to secondary Friday. I seem to have C02 still working its way out of the beer. I don't think I have active fermenation going on but without a hydrometer . . . .

[mysterio]

I had no idea yeasts could be so idiosyncratic. Whatever I have read about this yeast has been slightly different on each forum I search. I know each yeast has it's own foibles, but for the same yeast...

[iowalad]

Some interesting info from Brew Monkey:

http://www.brew-monkey.com/brewschool/y ... lyeast.php

Wyeast Labs Thames Valley Ale - 1275

Yeast Type Ale
Yeast Form Liquid
Floccuation Medium
Attenuation 74.0 %
Optimum Fermentation Temperature 62.1 °F - 72.0 °F
Description Produces classic British bitters, rich complex flavor profile, clean, light malt character, low fruitiness, low esters, well balanced.


Wyeast Labs Thames Valley Ale Yeast II - 1882

Yeast Type Ale
Yeast Form Liquid
Floccuation High
Attenuation 77%
Optimum Fermentation Temperature 62.0 °F - 72.0 °F
Description Slightly fruitier and more malty on the palate than 1275. Well balanced with a clean, dry finish. The source of 1275 and 1882 uses them together to produce a highly complex flavor profile and spicy character.


I went to the Wyeast website and could't find any info on 1882.


Did find a tidbit on aeration in their FAQ that I found interesting:

http://www.wyeastlab.com/faqs/faqmain.htm

What is the best way to aerate yeast?
Q. I have a stuck fermentation which might not have been aerated very well. It is a 1.065 original gravity wort and it stopped fermenting at 1.025. What is the best method to aerate the wort.

A. Aeration is difficult for homebrewers. One good method is to fill a carboy about 1/2 full of cooled wort. Close and shake vigorously for a couple of minutes. This will supplied dissloved oxygen which is necessary for yeast metabolism. Pitch the yeast and fill the carboy the rest of the way. Using an areation stone is also an effective way to add oxygen, by using an aquarium pump with a sterile filter. These items are often available at home brewing stores. Adding oxygen the following day after brewing, by rousing with a sanitary spoon or wire whip is also beneficial.


I had never heard of aerating the day after brewing.

[Scooby]

I had never heard of aerating the day after brewing.

I think what they mean is aerate as normal when brewing and and rousing the next day to aerate some more.

I have had yeast that needed rousing to keep a steady ferment, using a spoon I gently lift the yeast from the bottom back into suspension with the minimum of disturbance to any crop on top

[iowalad]

Thanks for the eplanation Scooby!

[mysterio]

Yeah you definately don't want to introduce air into the beer after the yeast has started producing gas.

Anyway the good news it that the bitter I made with TV is tasting very nice now