Retreaving yeast
- bitter_dave
- Even further under the Table
- Posts: 2067
- Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2005 1:00 pm
- Location: Whitley Bay
Retreaving yeast
Hi all
I'm going to barrel my American Pale Ale type beer in the next day or two. There is still a thick head on the beer which doesn't look like it's going anywhere. I've left it alone and not skimmed it.
This has made me wonder about saving the yeast (US 56) for a future brew. This was what I was thinking of doing:
1) Skimming the surface layer of the head off with a sterilised spoon.
2) Taking the next layer with the sppon and placing in a sterlised glass bottle via a funnel. (Bottle is a SNPA bottle which I've used for brewing before).
3) Adding small layer of boiled and cooled water (don't know why, just seem to remember something about this).
4) Capping bottle and placing in the fridge.
Is this right? Perhaps I should do this after I've barreled the beer only leaving the yeast behind. How long do you think it could remain sound in the fridge like this? Questions, questions, tips etc
I'm going to barrel my American Pale Ale type beer in the next day or two. There is still a thick head on the beer which doesn't look like it's going anywhere. I've left it alone and not skimmed it.
This has made me wonder about saving the yeast (US 56) for a future brew. This was what I was thinking of doing:
1) Skimming the surface layer of the head off with a sterilised spoon.
2) Taking the next layer with the sppon and placing in a sterlised glass bottle via a funnel. (Bottle is a SNPA bottle which I've used for brewing before).
3) Adding small layer of boiled and cooled water (don't know why, just seem to remember something about this).
4) Capping bottle and placing in the fridge.
Is this right? Perhaps I should do this after I've barreled the beer only leaving the yeast behind. How long do you think it could remain sound in the fridge like this? Questions, questions, tips etc
Well for a start, I wouldn't cap that bottle unless you wanted yeast all over your fridge. An airlock or even sanitized tinfoil will keep anything out while giving the yeast a chance to vent the co2 produced.
What I do is to wait until primary is finished and swirl the yeast (after the beer is racked) and put into a sanitized mason jar with a airlock on it. If I am keeping it longer than a week, I'll rinse the trub from it with cooled boiled water after decanting the old beer on top.
I freeze my yeast in test tubes for later batches as I don't always brew the same beer 2 times in a row. I use this method for my freezing.
http://www.schwedhelm.net/brew/yeast_harv_freeze.html I have been using this method for the past 6 months and haven't bought yeast for the strains I have frozen since.
What I do is to wait until primary is finished and swirl the yeast (after the beer is racked) and put into a sanitized mason jar with a airlock on it. If I am keeping it longer than a week, I'll rinse the trub from it with cooled boiled water after decanting the old beer on top.
I freeze my yeast in test tubes for later batches as I don't always brew the same beer 2 times in a row. I use this method for my freezing.
http://www.schwedhelm.net/brew/yeast_harv_freeze.html I have been using this method for the past 6 months and haven't bought yeast for the strains I have frozen since.
I keep plastic bottles in the fridge for up to six months with yeast in - as long as the beer you got the yeast from has fermented out, you don't need to worry about explosions!
I've seen it recommended that you replace the beer above the yeast slurry with boiled and cooled water - I've tried both and didn't notice any difference.
I've seen it recommended that you replace the beer above the yeast slurry with boiled and cooled water - I've tried both and didn't notice any difference.
- bitter_dave
- Even further under the Table
- Posts: 2067
- Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2005 1:00 pm
- Location: Whitley Bay
- crow_flies
- Hollow Legs
- Posts: 358
- Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 11:51 am
- Location: Winterton-on-Sea
My last three brews have consisted of an initial gervin ale yeast, in the fermenter for 14 days, then beer straight to barrel for priming/conditioning and left for a month before drinking. I've then recovered 1/2 plastic coke bottle of the slurry in primary and stored in the fridge for next brew (usually the next day and no more than a week).
This has had some of the wort added 1/2hr before pitching and shaken vigourously. Each one has taken off like a rocket
Its seems to work well, fits in with my brewing schedule twice per month and also means the yeast is not stored too long (though understand its not a problem to store it for some time in the fridge).
I know this perhaps not optimum or completely best practice, but I'm working on the theory that if you collect enough there will be more than enough viable cells to start the brew off well - and experience to date has shown this to be the case.
/CF
This has had some of the wort added 1/2hr before pitching and shaken vigourously. Each one has taken off like a rocket
Its seems to work well, fits in with my brewing schedule twice per month and also means the yeast is not stored too long (though understand its not a problem to store it for some time in the fridge).
I know this perhaps not optimum or completely best practice, but I'm working on the theory that if you collect enough there will be more than enough viable cells to start the brew off well - and experience to date has shown this to be the case.
/CF
Drinking:Bottled Hobgoblin clone
Drinking:Bottled Black sheep clone
Drinking:Casked Amarillo ale
In the FV: nought
Drinking:Bottled Black sheep clone
Drinking:Casked Amarillo ale
In the FV: nought