14 months, got the instructions off aussiehomebrewer.com
Though I've stumbled on some brewing mates here that tell me it's bad management, I should be plating my cultures ..
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QUOTE (Jaytee @ Jul 26 2005, 11:59 PM)14 months, got the instructions off aussiehomebrewer.com
Though I've stumbled on some brewing mates here that tell me it's bad management, I should be plating my cultures ..
Well yeast has been transferred directly from brew to brew for centuries!
...and if by plating your yeast you are referring to clean culture environments, I have heard some arguments against in that the yeast isn't being fed what you want it to grow fat on...
I'd like to put some stuff on this on the main site which Jim and I are working on redesigning... Would you be mind if we did?
Would you also be interested in letting us know your experience over the last year or so?
Though I've stumbled on some brewing mates here that tell me it's bad management, I should be plating my cultures ..
Well yeast has been transferred directly from brew to brew for centuries!
...and if by plating your yeast you are referring to clean culture environments, I have heard some arguments against in that the yeast isn't being fed what you want it to grow fat on...
I'd like to put some stuff on this on the main site which Jim and I are working on redesigning... Would you be mind if we did?
Would you also be interested in letting us know your experience over the last year or so?
Not sure how long they keep.
The oldest I've used is 18 weeks I think.
I'm sure I read that you should allow one day for each month of it's age for it to be ready to pitch.
So if my starter from the fridge is 8 weeks (2 months) old, make the starter for the brew two days before hand - seems to work for me.
Watch the temperature, hygene and remember to aerate well
What was behind the choice of 1318 ?
The oldest I've used is 18 weeks I think.
I'm sure I read that you should allow one day for each month of it's age for it to be ready to pitch.
So if my starter from the fridge is 8 weeks (2 months) old, make the starter for the brew two days before hand - seems to work for me.
Watch the temperature, hygene and remember to aerate well
What was behind the choice of 1318 ?
QUOTE (Jaytee @ Jul 27 2005, 09:25 PM) ..........What was behind the choice of 1318 ?
Thanks for the advice Jaytee.
I chose that strain based on the description on the Wyeast website. It's described (if I remember correctly) as being slightly fruity but otherwise fairly neutral, letting the malt & hop flavour through, and with a sweetish finish. I don't like my beer too dry, so I though that would be a good one to try for a start.
Thanks for the advice Jaytee.
I chose that strain based on the description on the Wyeast website. It's described (if I remember correctly) as being slightly fruity but otherwise fairly neutral, letting the malt & hop flavour through, and with a sweetish finish. I don't like my beer too dry, so I though that would be a good one to try for a start.
Righto.
I started with the 1968, it was all that was in stock - the local distributor usually only indents to order every 6 weeks or so, but he had a couple of spares.
Found that a bit on the fruity side while I was still using kits so went for 1275 which is also quite good for a dry stout.
In hindsight, 1028 would have been more versatile for the ales I brew (bitter, brown ale, porter) than the 1968, but overall I'm happily drinking away !
I find the 1275 nice & dry, which is good, especially for the dry stout and Irish Red.
Just in the process of stepping up my 1968 again, currently at 2 litres, will add another litre tonight and brew a brown on Sunday and bottle the rest off as starters.
Used some Safale in my last Irish red last week, it's just not the same.
if you are using dried yeast, there are some good instructions on rehydrating here
http://consumer.lallemand.com/danstar-l ... rehyd.html
And I did have the SAF link somewhere but I've lost it, but have this cut&paste
1. Add the dried yeast to approximately 10 times its own weight in water or wort at:
27°C ± 3°C for Safbrew™ and Safale™
23°C ± 3°C for Saflager™
After a 15-30 minute rest, maintain a gentle stirring for another 30 minutes.
Pitch into FV.
I started with the 1968, it was all that was in stock - the local distributor usually only indents to order every 6 weeks or so, but he had a couple of spares.
Found that a bit on the fruity side while I was still using kits so went for 1275 which is also quite good for a dry stout.
In hindsight, 1028 would have been more versatile for the ales I brew (bitter, brown ale, porter) than the 1968, but overall I'm happily drinking away !
I find the 1275 nice & dry, which is good, especially for the dry stout and Irish Red.
Just in the process of stepping up my 1968 again, currently at 2 litres, will add another litre tonight and brew a brown on Sunday and bottle the rest off as starters.
Used some Safale in my last Irish red last week, it's just not the same.
if you are using dried yeast, there are some good instructions on rehydrating here
http://consumer.lallemand.com/danstar-l ... rehyd.html
And I did have the SAF link somewhere but I've lost it, but have this cut&paste
1. Add the dried yeast to approximately 10 times its own weight in water or wort at:
27°C ± 3°C for Safbrew™ and Safale™
23°C ± 3°C for Saflager™
After a 15-30 minute rest, maintain a gentle stirring for another 30 minutes.
Pitch into FV.