I fine in secondary and then bottle. It does take a little longer to carbonate in the bottle, but not much longerbut surely if you fined in the secondary there would be no yeast left in suspension when you bottled to create any CO2/fizz and your beer would be flat?
Finings etc
EB, I believe you are right about the different type of yeast added in some bottle conditioned beers, not being the actual yeast used for primary fermentation
Vossy, that's what I thought it would take a lot longer to carbonate, but obviously you would get let sediment in the bottle
Tribs, I agree fully with that, I have had quite a few 'fluffy' deposits in the bottom, I have never kegged a brew yet and I'm getting quite sick of bottling, the novelty has definately worn off. I might try your suggestion next time.
I would have thought if you were to fine in the secondary then bottle immediatley you would get all the rubbish from the bottom of the secondary vessel, defeating the object of secondary in the first place, I usually rack it off from the secondary (leaving behind the muck) into a bottling bucket fitted with a bottling stick, add my primer (usually light spraymalt) carefully dissolve it then bottle.
ok, I'll try fining in the secondary, and also learnt something, cheers
Vossy, that's what I thought it would take a lot longer to carbonate, but obviously you would get let sediment in the bottle
Tribs, I agree fully with that, I have had quite a few 'fluffy' deposits in the bottom, I have never kegged a brew yet and I'm getting quite sick of bottling, the novelty has definately worn off. I might try your suggestion next time.
I would have thought if you were to fine in the secondary then bottle immediatley you would get all the rubbish from the bottom of the secondary vessel, defeating the object of secondary in the first place, I usually rack it off from the secondary (leaving behind the muck) into a bottling bucket fitted with a bottling stick, add my primer (usually light spraymalt) carefully dissolve it then bottle.
ok, I'll try fining in the secondary, and also learnt something, cheers
I see what you mean DRB, but the I thought the idea of secondary before bottling is to drop more yeast out of suspension and to mature the beer quicker in volume before it's bottled, you wouldn't be able to add the finings or your primer (unless you prime each bottle, messy job) to the secondary without disturbing the dead yeast at the bottom, so tranferring to another bucket, adding yuor finings and primer, then bottling gets round this, its just what I have found easier, others may do it differently
well done on your first ag BTW, doing mine nest week so read your unfolding story with interest
well done on your first ag BTW, doing mine nest week so read your unfolding story with interest
If you are bottling, you need to let the finings drop clear before you bottle otherwise you'll just end up with the fluffy fined sediment in your bottles that kicks up real easy when you pour.
I rarely use finings and I've only done it the once with bottling (Never again). If you hide the bottles away for a good while they tend to drop perfectly clear anyway.
I rarely use finings and I've only done it the once with bottling (Never again). If you hide the bottles away for a good while they tend to drop perfectly clear anyway.
Only just caught up with this one. When I bottled beer I tried to clear the yeast completely in secondary using gelatine bacause I had been told cloudy beer in a bottle won't keep, but before adding it I took a small sample and stored in the fridge. When clear I racked the bulk into another container and Krausen with the yeast laden beer stored in the fridge, I always primed with sugar in the bottle but DaaB's method seems much better.
I believe top fermenting yeast do not have very good keeping qualities, (ok for the short time the beer is in a cask but bottled beer may be in there muchlonger) and don't form a firm bed, a possible reason some commercial bottled beers have a different priming yeast. A friend of mine who only ever bottled beer was fed up with his yeast lifting when he opened a bottle got round it this way: He made a small starter with lager yeast and used that as a krausen wort, he said the bottom fermenting yeast formed a much firmer bed and solved his problem.
This was a while ago and thinking may have changed now.
I believe top fermenting yeast do not have very good keeping qualities, (ok for the short time the beer is in a cask but bottled beer may be in there muchlonger) and don't form a firm bed, a possible reason some commercial bottled beers have a different priming yeast. A friend of mine who only ever bottled beer was fed up with his yeast lifting when he opened a bottle got round it this way: He made a small starter with lager yeast and used that as a krausen wort, he said the bottom fermenting yeast formed a much firmer bed and solved his problem.
This was a while ago and thinking may have changed now.
I'm the same as I don't fine any of my beers. To be perfectly honest I don't really see the need as they all drop bright given time.tribs wrote:I rarely use finings and I've only done it the once with bottling (Never again). If you hide the bottles away for a good while they tend to drop perfectly clear anyway.
If you're finding your beer is still cloudy when you're wanting to drink it, it simply means you are drinking quicker than you're brewing, simple solution...brew more!!
Well, it's my excuse anyway!
Hello all i am planning making more pale colour beers next year. Have occasionally had trouble in the past with very pale beers being hazy and taking a long time to clear.I have had great success in the past using Hop & Grapes Alginex followed by Isinglass.I am thinking about buying the Murphy's Alginex the next time as it's very much more concentrated 0.5 - 1.25ml per 100Litre of beer. 1 Litre should last years was quoted £4 per Litre forgot to ask what the shelf life is though. Cheers
I kegged my beer that I fined with this stuff and it's alarmingly bright, looks like it has been filtered. Good stuff, pity about the price. I'll be experimenting with aux finings and fresh isinglass next.mysterio wrote:I just tried out the Condessa stuff the other day on a brew I have sitting in the secondary. It was very quick and the beer was bright in a couple of days. Only problem is it's about £4 for only two doses. The active ingredient is silicic acid - I wonder if this works on chill haze. Any chemists know if this is +ve or -ve charged?