Hop back yeast
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Scooby
Hop back yeast
I've not seen mention of anyone lifting Summer lightning yeast from the bottle so presume it's a conditioning yeast and not the fermentation one?
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Scooby
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Gurgeh
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steve_flack
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steve_flack
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delboy
Steve can you not get access to 25 ml universals (p*ss sample bottles), these should be about knocking most labs are as cheap as chips and sterile (irradated).steve_flack wrote:I'll need to find a vial I can send it back in that I can autoclave.
Just read you have some Hook Norton too....very interesting
I have some Crouch Vale if you fancy some?
I really should think about setting up a yeast slant library and save on some cash.
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steve_flack
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Scooby
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delboy
'Paul Mc Cartneys'steve_flack wrote:I can get Sterilin pots but they aren't autoclavable. I use glass tubes - those ones with the metal lids and rubber seals (they have a name but it escapes me right now)
, i suppose you are autoclaving them to make the agar slants, to be honest i've never tried autoclaving the sterilins except before disposal (i thought you would be sending it in sterile water hence the suggestion) i've never checked to see how the sterilins come out of the autoclave. We would of course prepare small amounts of sterile medium in the glass McCartney bottles.
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steve_flack
Dunno...might do actually but they may not be the sterile ones.DaaB wrote: Are these available from the Chemists
If done for the right amount of time, yes. Especially if your equipment might have nooks and crannies. It's the difference between sanitising and sterilising.and is boiling (not in a pressure cooker) better than chemical sanitisers?
I don't think so as the aim is to have boiling water at a higher temperature which you can only do under pressure. Your method has boiling water at 100C in a 135C oven. Your best bet is dry heat which takes 45 minutes at 175C. Wrap things in foil first and let them cool naturally in the oven. Obviously this temperature limits what you can do this with - glass and metal basically.One last question, could I get similar results to an autoclave if I put the stuff in the over in a pyex dish with lid and set it to 135 (with a little water)?
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steve_flack
Mine aren't from H&G but I have heated conicals on the stove and only one has cracked (because I was a moron and left it to boil dry). They should be fine. TBH, I'm more worried about the ceramic hob.
I used to use them on gas and all was well.
FWIW my 250ml ones are made by Fisher and are pretty thin walled. The 2L conicals are made by Kimax and are much thicker.
I used to use them on gas and all was well.
FWIW my 250ml ones are made by Fisher and are pretty thin walled. The 2L conicals are made by Kimax and are much thicker.
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delboy
Buy a wee pressure cooker and use that, at a pinch when we need something sterilised at the weekend we drag out a wee pressure cooker and use that, just treat your glassware as you would boiled spudsDaaB wrote:steve_flack wrote:I don't think so as the aim is to have boiling water at a higher temperature which you can only do under pressure. Your method has boiling water at 100C in a 135C oven.One last question, could I get similar results to an autoclave if I put the stuff in the over in a pyex dish with lid and set it to 135 (with a little water)?
Btw have you heated those H&G conical flasks directly on the stove ? (they seem very thin).
The flasks are made out of pyrex so they should be able to cope with temperature swings, that said i've had one crack on me. I think the secret is to heat them gently, i put the one that broke on a red hot ring which was kind of asking for trouble
