Thinking of going back to using liquid yeast, used to use them years ago, but as I only had a few really old homebrew books for guidance, I probably didn't use the yeast very wisely.
Was thinking of trying Jim's method for dividing it up to save a few quid. If I make a starter and then divide it into six containers, what would be the best procedure for making a starter sufficient for a 10g batch of around og 1.040 to 1.042 beer?
It's mainly time and quantities I'm unsure of, like what volume of starter do I need, how much DME to make that quantity, how long before brew day do I begin the starter. I've got several demijohns and airlocks.
TIA
Dividing liquid yeast & starter help
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steve_flack
Take a look at the Mr Malty site for starter sizes
http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html
You may find his starter sizes rather large especially for 10 gallons but they are the optimen sizes. You could use smaller but have a greater lag time. To make a starter you use a 1g of DME for every 10ml of water (so 100g in a litre)
http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html
You may find his starter sizes rather large especially for 10 gallons but they are the optimen sizes. You could use smaller but have a greater lag time. To make a starter you use a 1g of DME for every 10ml of water (so 100g in a litre)
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Wobbler
I've messed around with that Mr Malty calculator before. I don't understand the Growth Factor slider, which has a massive influence over the outcome. It says: Small Starters - Large Starters, so what's the difference between that and the Litres of starter required setting?
Something else I'm unsure about: Approximately how old are the vials of WL yeast that come from H&G? I'll probably go with one that has a fast turnover, like WLP002. Production date has a significant say in Mr Malty's calculator.
I prefer Jim's step by step guides with pictures, to Mr Malty
Cheers
Something else I'm unsure about: Approximately how old are the vials of WL yeast that come from H&G? I'll probably go with one that has a fast turnover, like WLP002. Production date has a significant say in Mr Malty's calculator.
I prefer Jim's step by step guides with pictures, to Mr Malty
Cheers
I would just leave the growth slider at its default position.
if your not sure of the age you could start with a smaller starter say a pint and then step it up to a quart or two as needed (ie add more wort after the pint start has largely fermented out).
I don't have a stir plate - shaking the starter has seemed to improve my yeast growth although I have no evidence to back that up!
if your not sure of the age you could start with a smaller starter say a pint and then step it up to a quart or two as needed (ie add more wort after the pint start has largely fermented out).
I don't have a stir plate - shaking the starter has seemed to improve my yeast growth although I have no evidence to back that up!
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steve_flack
Although sometimes it seems to do little, I think the slider varies between starting with fewer tubes and a bigger starter and more tubes and a smaller starter.Wobbler wrote:I've messed around with that Mr Malty calculator before. I don't understand the Growth Factor slider, which has a massive influence over the outcome. It says: Small Starters - Large Starters, so what's the difference between that and the Litres of starter required setting?
Ironically I'd go with a special order yeast as H&G need to order those in from the US. I recently ordered a Saison yeast that way and it was very fresh when I got it. That's not to say the normal stock is old but it could be a couple of months old by the time you get it.Something else I'm unsure about: Approximately how old are the vials of WL yeast that come from H&G? I'll probably go with one that has a fast turnover, like WLP002. Production date has a significant say in Mr Malty's calculator.
Jims guide is good but doesn't tell you how big a starter you should be doing for a particular strength beer or brewlength. With a fresh tube of Whitelabs yeast you might as well not bother with anything smaller than a pint starter as it won't grow any more cells. With a small wyeast smackpack or something a bit older then any starter is better than nothing.I prefer Jim's step by step guides with pictures, to Mr Malty
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Wobbler
So I'll make a half gallon starter between 1.030 and 1.040. I'll then divide it up into six sanitised mineral water bottles. So I'm assuming I can use just one of these as if it were a fresh vial of WL?
Mr Malty thinks a 3 litres starter is enough for 10 gallons of 1.042 beer.
Mr Malty thinks a 3 litres starter is enough for 10 gallons of 1.042 beer.
In that case I might try WLP025. Anyone had a go with that?steve_flack wrote: Ironically I'd go with a special order yeast as H&G need to order those in from the US. I recently ordered a Saison yeast that way and it was very fresh when I got it. That's not to say the normal stock is old but it could be a couple of months old by the time you get it.
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steve_flack
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Wobbler
I was just starting to get my head round Mr Malty's starters, then after my first couple of beers of the evening you go and confuse me with this.DaaB wrote:You could always cheat a little and make a 1.5L starter a day or so early.
During the boil on brew day, draw off a 1/2 a liter and cool.
Pour off the old starter beer and pitch the yeast into fresh sample of wort to activate then when it comes to pitching into the wort, draw off an extra 500ml and put to one side, pitch 2/3rds of your active starter into the main batch a the remaining 1/3rd into the 500ml you have just drawn off.
If I had a 1.5L starter and then added half a litre, but only used two thirds of it, that would mean only a 1.3L starter for a ten gal batch?
I'm going to have another beer and not make any decisions until the morning.
Wobbler,
After I have split my original starter I then treat that date as my mfr date when using Mr Malty.
When it is time to use the split off portion I then use Mr Malty to see how big a starter I need and go from there. I tend to use the setting for simple starter but acutally use the intermittent shaking for my actual method.
Once the starter has fermented out - I chill it, decant the beer off the top (usually drink it) and then use the slurry.
I have been getting the predicted attentuation for the yeast and no infections (yet). I have been using yeast from one Wyeast activator pack for all but two of my beers this year.
My next batch will use the above plus a daab's famous flying starter thrown in for good measure.
After I have split my original starter I then treat that date as my mfr date when using Mr Malty.
When it is time to use the split off portion I then use Mr Malty to see how big a starter I need and go from there. I tend to use the setting for simple starter but acutally use the intermittent shaking for my actual method.
Once the starter has fermented out - I chill it, decant the beer off the top (usually drink it) and then use the slurry.
I have been getting the predicted attentuation for the yeast and no infections (yet). I have been using yeast from one Wyeast activator pack for all but two of my beers this year.
My next batch will use the above plus a daab's famous flying starter thrown in for good measure.
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Wobbler
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Wobbler
That's ok, I forgive you.DaaB wrote:
Firstly, opps I didn't read you were making a 10gal batch.
So if I double the 1.3L, then it's not far off Mr M's verdict.
I'm with you on the 2/3 - 1/3 approach. Makes more sense than trying to scrounge the yeast out of the bottom of the fermentor, or interfering with the active fermentation and skimming off the top. Thanks for the tip.
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Wobbler
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Wobbler
Tried to order the WLP006 today, seems it isn't one that's on the regular list, so H&G don't sell it.
Any other recommendations would be welcomed, otherwise I'll go for WLP002. Ideally I'd be looking for something with high flocculation. Apart from the odd batch with S04 or US05, I've been using mainly Nottingham Ale yeast, which does an amazing job for bottled beers. It sticks to the bottom of the bottle so well I can normally tip the whole bottle in. Just fancy something different for a change.
Any other recommendations would be welcomed, otherwise I'll go for WLP002. Ideally I'd be looking for something with high flocculation. Apart from the odd batch with S04 or US05, I've been using mainly Nottingham Ale yeast, which does an amazing job for bottled beers. It sticks to the bottom of the bottle so well I can normally tip the whole bottle in. Just fancy something different for a change.