Sparging a thick mash

[bandit]

Yesterday I mixed 9 litres with 4.5 Kg of grain. I think I drained the wort too quickly and ended up with a stuck mash, first one ever. I rescued it eventually but I bet the HSA will really effect it later.

I am just starting another brew today (as its raining) and want to ask this. My grain is a very fine crush and the mash at 2Ltrs / Kg creates a very thick mash. Can I add extra water, at say 75 Deg C, to the mash tun after 90 mins before starting the sparge to give a bit more fluidity before starting sparging? Will this create further problems?

[Aleman]

That would be one of the things I would do in that situation. In fact my normal approach is to start the sparge liquor, and then start run off into the under back, once I have a good clear recirc then I stop the Sparge flow, open the tap to the boiler, and allow the tun level to drop to a more sensible level before starting the sparge again

I was looking at one of the Duerden Park recipes and that calls for 10Lbs of Pale per gallon, even in a 10 Gallon Tun I'm not going to be able to make all that much of it

[bandit]

So I guess you put the contents of the underback into the top of the mash tun whilst sparging?

[Aleman]

mash thickness has a negligible effect on fermentability in my experience

I'll agree with Daab here . . . . but (well you knew there was going to be a but didn't you ) with bigger beers (1.070+) I have found that a thick mash does produce a less fermentable wort, and so I tend to reduce the mash temp a couple of degrees to compensate for this.

Of course with another brewers equipment this effect may or may not be noticeable

[bandit]

I am trying to improve my Pale Ales so I tried for a thick mash at 67 Deg C. It certainly proves difficult sparging when you have a fine crushed malt. Anyway, I have now managed to get a boiler full and its on its way. I will definetly flood the tun again to decrease the density.

Re-HSA. I listened to the pod cast from over the water and they did a test for HSA and there was no doubt that it induced staling in the finished beer. Do you think tipping the contents of the boiler out to put the hop strainer in and then refilling will introduce too much air, hot side. I keep saying I will remember to fit the strainer but once again I forgot

[SteveD]

Do you think tipping the contents of the boiler out to put the hop strainer in and then refilling will introduce too much air, hot side. I keep saying I will remember to fit the strainer but once again I forgot

Depending on your tap, forgetting the strainer is no big deal. With a plastic boiler and plastic drum tap, just crack it gently open part way, and the wort will flow, albeit slower than with a strainer. By gently opening the tap you can get a reasonable flow rate and the hops will filter the trub out as usual. I've done this several times with no problems when I had no hop strainer at all, and latterly when I have had one, but forgotten to fit it. Saves emptying it all out, which is moderately hazardous with 5 gallons of very hot liquid.