Mash Temps

Buzz · Post by **Buzz** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 7:27 pm

If I'm looking to add a bit more body to my beer I understand a higher mash temp will help. Just so I don't overdo it, what sort of temperature would be the maximum before I ruin things

Up until now I've been mashing around the 65/66deg mark but, a few friends have commented that they would like a bit more body as my beers feel a bit thin in the mouth. I must agree, although my Winter Royal came out at 5.8%, it does seem to lack a bit of body.

mysterio · Post by **mysterio** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 7:49 pm

Try 68 next time, well within the range.

Post by **Jim** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 8:18 pm

Mash pH can affect the 'body' of a beer as well. Too acidic a mash can result in thin tasting beer. 5.2 is considered OK for British ales.

Buzz · Post by **Buzz** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 9:22 pm

I do know my PH is out, so that may be it. Being relatively new to AG i have ignored water treatment up until recently, whilst I got the general technique right.

I checked the PH 2 brews ago and it was high at 5.7. Since then I had a water filter fitted so, rather than adjust more than one thing at once, I left the water untreated for my last brew and took the PH again. If anything, it came out higher, looking around 5.8 or 5.9 (I'm using the paper strips) so I'll look into adjusting that for my next brew. Planning another one for next week.

steve_flack · Post by **steve_flack** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 9:38 pm

You could try changing yeast - Wyeast 1968/Whitelabs-002 is a fairly unattenuative and will leave a bit of body in the beer. It also happens to taste nice.

Buzz · Post by **Buzz** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 9:53 pm

Blimey, what to change first; Mash temperature, PH or Yeast

Unless I do one at a time I won't know which is responsible for what, so thats 3 possible brews. If I only manage about one a month, it could be May before I get it right

Patience...

steve_flack · Post by **steve_flack** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 10:03 am

You think you've got problems. I've got about half a dozen ale yeasts lined up to try in my quest for the perfect bitter yeast. I keep brewing pretty much the same beer just changing the yeast. So far I know it won't be

S-04, Nottingham, WY-1275, WLP-026.

Still to go

Brewlabs No9, Brewlabs Standard Ale, Hopback, Hook Norton, WY-1968 and Windsor.

oblivious · Post by **oblivious** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 10:37 am

steve_flack wrote:You think you've got problems. I've got about half a dozen ale yeasts lined up to try in my quest for the perfect bitter yeast. I keep brewing pretty much the same beer just changing the yeast. So far I know it won't be

S-04, Nottingham, WY-1275, WLP-026.

Still to go

Brewlabs No9, Brewlabs Standard Ale, Hopback, Hook Norton, WY-1968 and Windsor.

Any chance you could keep us posted on your results, its nice to see a scientific approach to evaluating yeast.

Col Robinson · Post by **Col Robinson** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 6:59 pm

a few friends have commented that they would like a bit more body as my beers feel a bit thin in the mouth.

You could try reminding 'em it's free

MightyMouth · Post by **MightyMouth** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 7:19 pm

Col Robinson wrote:
a few friends have commented that they would like a bit more body as my beers feel a bit thin in the mouth.
You could try reminding 'em it's free

or you could remind them the next one that mentions the beer being thin is going to get a fat lip.

Buzz · Post by **Buzz** » Wed Jan 30, 2008 10:56 am

To be fair, I'd prefer them to be honest so I have an idea of where I might be going wrong. A few of them have been drinking real ale much longer than I and I respect their wisdom. I'm pleased to say their reaction to the AG has been a marked improvement on my kits which I'd done previously for years, so I'm glad I took the jump to the darkside

I guess it's not hard to make a reasonable beer, just damned difficult to get one exactly how you wish

MacDuck · Post by **MacDuck** » Wed Jan 30, 2008 9:35 pm

steve_flack wrote:You think you've got problems. I've got about half a dozen ale yeasts lined up to try in my quest for the perfect bitter yeast. I keep brewing pretty much the same beer just changing the yeast. So far I know it won't be

S-04, Nottingham, WY-1275, WLP-026.

Still to go

Brewlabs No9, Brewlabs Standard Ale, Hopback, Hook Norton, WY-1968 and Windsor.

Come on dude. That is an easy problem to solve.

Get 4 1 gallon bottles, divide your wort between the 4 an add a different yeast to each.

Then the only difference is the yeast. All else is the same(ish)

Post by **Aleman** » Wed Jan 30, 2008 11:31 pm

MacDuck wrote:
steve_flack wrote:You think you've got problems. I've got about half a dozen ale yeasts lined up to try in my quest for the perfect bitter yeast. I keep brewing pretty much the same beer just changing the yeast. So far I know it won't be

S-04, Nottingham, WY-1275, WLP-026.

Still to go

Brewlabs No9, Brewlabs Standard Ale, Hopback, Hook Norton, WY-1968 and Windsor.

Come on dude. That is an easy problem to solve.

Get 4 1 gallon bottles, divide your wort between the 4 an add a different yeast to each.

Then the only difference is the yeast. All else is the same(ish)

Thats the big reason to move up to IBBL, you can split the wort into 6 batches of 6 gallons, and ferment with all the different yeasts, done in one go. . . . . . I know Steve that you know a brewer that might let you borrow his brew plant for the day

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Mash Temps

Mash Temps