Gravity while sparging.

Robdog · Post by **Robdog** » Sat Nov 15, 2008 4:07 pm

I know that i have to stop the sparge when the gravity reaches approx 1008 but im not sure if thats the actual reading or if i have to allow for a temp alteration?

Do i stop when the hydrometer says 1008 or do i have to work out temp alterations etc?

Post by **Jim** » Sat Nov 15, 2008 4:37 pm

Robdog wrote:I know that i have to stop the sparge when the gravity reaches approx 1008 but im not sure if thats the actual reading or if i have to allow for a temp alteration?

Do i stop when the hydrometer says 1008 or do i have to work out temp alterations etc?

You need to correct for temperature - 1.008 is the actual gravity you want, not the reading.

Parva · Post by **Parva** » Sat Nov 15, 2008 5:40 pm

When I started out I just used a straight 5Kg M.O. and 27l of water to aim for a 23l 5% brew. When I checked the cooled final runnings I had finished at 1014 which is way over and could have got more out of it but so what. Ok, I lost a bit of grain but better to lose a bit and be inefficient than worry about getting too close to 1.006 and ending up with a brew with off-tastes. I really think you are worrying far too much about this. I've never ended up below 1.012 and am perfectly happy with this. I'm so used to it now that most of the time I don't even bother checking the final runnings.

shedman · Post by **shedman** » Sun Nov 16, 2008 7:52 pm

Once Ive collected my required volume and if as in your example, I would still draw wort off the mash and add to the boiler. I typically have an evaporation rate of 8ltr when boiling so the extra is easily accomodated, brew length stays the same but efficiency is increased.

Piscator · Post by **Piscator** » Sun Nov 16, 2008 8:56 pm

Parva wrote:When I started out I just used a straight 5Kg M.O. and 27l of water to aim for a 23l 5% brew. When I checked the cooled final runnings I had finished at 1014 which is way over and could have got more out of it but so what. Ok, I lost a bit of grain but better to lose a bit and be inefficient than worry about getting too close to 1.006 and ending up with a brew with off-tastes. I really think you are worrying far too much about this. I've never ended up below 1.012 and am perfectly happy with this. I'm so used to it now that most of the time I don't even bother checking the final runnings.

I'm with Parva, I checked my setup out intially when I put it together - but now I know how it performs I rarely if ever bother to check the final runnings.
Oh and the beers not bad either

BarnsleyBrewer · Post by **BarnsleyBrewer** » Mon Nov 17, 2008 10:14 am

I taste the final runnings, if it's still sweet I carry on, if it gets a grainy/husky taste I stop... Works for me!!

John

Madbrewer · Post by **Madbrewer** » Mon Nov 17, 2008 10:34 am

FWIW I find that going for a deliberate 73% efficiency and batch sparging helps. Batch Sparge eliminates some of the risks with sparging i.e. harshly rinsing the tannins into the wort.

So for an extra Â£1 per brew I end up with a much better pint - well worth considering?

Robdog · Post by **Robdog** » Mon Nov 17, 2008 2:15 pm

I think as its my first AG brew ill just do the taste thing as im unsure how to work out temp correction for the hydromter anyway so dont want to cock it up.

BarnsleyBrewer · Post by **BarnsleyBrewer** » Mon Nov 17, 2008 2:27 pm

Hi robdog
Try this
http://myhomebrew.com/ac0.html

John

Robdog · Post by **Robdog** » Mon Nov 17, 2008 3:53 pm

Thanks Barnslety thats a good converter.

So if i put my temp of the wort in and gravity at the temp it wil work out the correct gravity for me?

Im just going to taste it the first few times as i want to get used to it but im trying to learn as mych as i can as i go along for more advanced brews.

BarnsleyBrewer · Post by **BarnsleyBrewer** » Mon Nov 17, 2008 4:00 pm

Hi,
Try this, posted wrong one before.

http://www.collectionsoft.com/mybrewcollection/hc0.html

John

Robdog · Post by **Robdog** » Mon Nov 17, 2008 5:01 pm

Cheers i did find that anyway form the last link you sent.

So basically for future referance if i wanted to stop sparging at 1008 actual reading and the wort was say 50c at the time then i would need a
gravity reading of 998 according to that calculator and then that would give me a reading of 1008 at 20c.

Does that make sense or have i lost the plot

hoppingMad · Post by **hoppingMad** » Mon Nov 17, 2008 9:56 pm

Robdog wrote:I know that i have to stop the sparge when the gravity reaches approx 1008 but im not sure if thats the actual reading or if i have to allow for a temp alteration?

Do i stop when the hydrometer says 1008 or do i have to work out temp alterations etc?

As far as I am aware all Hydrometers are calibrated for use at a specific temperature. Often 20 C. Therefore if your wort is warmer you would need to use your correction chart, or chill your wort to 20.

Robdog · Post by **Robdog** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 12:10 am

Thanks Chris i think ive got the knack of it now.

If i want to stop sparging at say 1010 and my wort is 60c i need to get an actual gravity reading of 995 then when its cooled it will be correct.

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