Chill haze - Kwik clear / Polyclar

[Goulders]

As he says, except I rack onto the gelatin in a secondary (pressure barrel) and keg after 72 hours

[Capped]

My extract beers were all chill haze free, whereas my all grain ones now are all susceptible to chill haze below about 9 degrees C, so I suspect that it's something to do with the mash, although I'm also suspicious that some people that claim they don't get chill haze don't have their fridges particularly cold

You're not far wrong there - according to the resident fridge thermometer ours very rarely drops below 5C and sometimes gets alarmingly close to 10C even though it's set at 'max'. Whether the fridge or thermometer is dodgy I haven't been bothered to investigate. Turnover of contents is pretty quick tho' and being brought up in the days when milk would sit on the doorstep in blazing sun and dairy products were sold loose from fly-infested open cabinets from corner shops and survived unscathed, I don't worry about it too much. As for extract clarity, I remember the beer kit days of yore when no amount of chilling would provoke a haze. Unfortunately the beers produced had absolutely nothing else going for them and achieved their startling clarity 'cos they contained precious little malt but boatloads of white sugar.

[Sunter0100]

If I chill down to 10 degrees will the gelatin be effective at removing the chill haze proteins? Or does it have to be at fridge temperatures?

[orlando]

My extract beers were all chill haze free, whereas my all grain ones now are all susceptible to chill haze below about 9 degrees C, so I suspect that it's something to do with the mash, although I'm also suspicious that some people that claim they don't get chill haze don't have their fridges particularly cold

I think you have narrowed it down. Kit manufacturers create the wort and are aware of what is needed to produce a beer that isn't susceptible to chill haze. They will be careful about things like: alkalinity of the water used for brewing with, pH of the mash, over sparging to avoid tannin extraction, a decent boil to ensure protein precipitation and of course a good cold break to finish the job. You don't mention whether you dry hop but that can introduce a haze although not usually associated with chilling, it might become more apparent if there are faults in process up the line.

[Goulders]

I've only recently started using gelatin, but from what I've read, it's best to use gelatin at a temperature lower than you intend to serve at for it to be effective

[millmaster]

Sunter - can I ask what temperature the haze appears at ?

I may be mis-reading your posts, but as I read what you say the haze appears before you get down to 10 degrees C ?
If thats the case, is it really a chill haze ?
It was my understanding that a chill haze showed at fridge temperatures ( down around 3 degrees C ) and then went away when the beer was warmed up to room temperature again.

Does your haze get worse if the beer is stored in the fridge for a day or two and does it go away when the beer warms up again ?

[Sunter0100]

At room temperature it is perfectly clear. It goes a bit hazy outside in garage - 12 degrees ish on concrete floor. The haze gets worse once they are put in fridge. It is definitely chill haze. I will try adding gelatin at garage temperature and hope it takes some of the problem away.

[Mr. Dripping]

To get rid of chill haze, you have to create it in the first place. You need to cool the beer to below the temperature you intend to serve at to get the haze to form and then use something to remove it.
Chill hazes start to form at around 7 deg C....ideally I would suggest cooling the beer to as close to zero as possible....get as much of the haze forming proteins as you can to bond and precipitate out.
Time will drop these substances out naturally or you can then treat the beer with a number of substances as has been previously mentioned. One that has not been mentioned is finings adjunct, which I think personally is very effective.
Cool the beer, gently stir in the finings adjunct and leave for minimum 48 hours. You can then polish the beer further using some isinglass, though I have not been using this of late and have found no real difference in final beer clarity.